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 ADVANCED
Eagle Lake Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Wind Tree T 
A Line T 
Crowd Control T 
Eagle Route T 
East Ridge Route T 
Escape, The T 
Monkey Business T 
Orange Book T 
Orange Sunshine T 

Eagle Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Dave Beck, Norm Wilson, 1963.
Page Views: 2,515
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: "Eagle Route". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This route follows the right side of the "V" mentioned in "The Wind Tree" description.
Climb the right crack to a ledge belay.
Another pitch leads to a belay at the top of a groove.
Move left to a chimney, follow this to the East Ridge. Climb that to the top.

Protection 

Pro to 2".


Photos of Eagle Route Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up from the bottom of Eagle Route and Wind...
Looking up from the bottom of Eagle Route and Wind...
The fun knobby crack on pitch 1.
The fun knobby crack on pitch 1.

Comments on Eagle Route Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Great route in a great setting.
By philfell
From: Olympic Valley, CA
Aug 3, 2009

Great climb. Very little loose rock compared to other easy rated alpine climbs I've done. Lots of cobwebs when we climbed it so I don't think this gets climbed too often, although we did clip a fixed nut and cam that didn't seem to be there for too long.

Takes great pro the whole way. We did this in three pitches. First pitch, almost a full 60 meters, ground up through the "V" section belay where the angle eases below a few bushes. Second pitch, again almost a full 60 meters, up past the couple bushes up easy ground to the chimney section, continue up the path of least resistance to a big ledge area. Third pitch find the easiest path to the summit block.

I placed everything from a green alien up through a #4 Camelot. If I were to do this again I would only bring a set of nuts, #.5-#2 Camelot with a double in #1 and #2. Although I placed a #4 in the Chimney it was not needed, a #2 would have gone in a foot above or a foot below. I also placed a #3 at the first belay, but if I had an extra #2 it would have worked better. Lots of nut placements. There are no anchors so bring enough gear that you feel comfortable with.

We had to get a bit creative on the decent. I couldn't find a way off that we felt comfortable downclimbing so we did one rap and left some webbing in the saddle below the summit.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011

Fun east climb with great pro. The crack on the first pitch had lots of knobs for feet and hands.