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Routes in Altered States Gully
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A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Borrowed Time T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Magic Circus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gates T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Zenith T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | B. Robbins and B. Smoot, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 1,325 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Arie on May 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Expect to either soar like an American emblem or flail like an abandoned fledgling on this funky roof problem. The Ruckmans topo shows a roof and hands for this route which fired up my imagination
indeed there are several excellent hand jams to be found, but expect some gritty, insecurity, jams to reach them. Eagle Roof juts sharply left from near Discrete Feats crux and then zags back to nearly rejoin its 5.9 neighbor. Once through the zag, a beneficial chickenhead appears and the climbing eases to a scamper. Belay at a wedded pair of scrub oak endowed with loads to crusty webbing or continue right to the somewhat awkward belay on the more rightly, more Discrete line.
Location
Branching left from halfway up Discrete Feats first pitch the line is fairly obvious with a striking hand crack breaking the lip of a roof.
Protection
Bring your eagle scout badge, a nine-pack of abs, tape, and a standard assorted collection of LCC nuts, cams, and huevos. I dont remember anything larger than hands, but a slightly larger piece might be nice on the start of Discrete Feat. A sharp knife and replacement webbing for the belay might be the most critical gear.
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