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Eagle Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABD Warm-up 
Authentic Battle Damage 
Authentic Battle Damage Stand 
Bald Eagle 
Barely Eagle 
Buddha Belly 
Davey Jones Footlocker 
Eagle Chick 
Eagle Eyes 
Eagle Hardware 
Eagle Snacks 
Eagle Tricks 
Eagle Warrior 
Finally Eagle 
Golden Eagle 
Great Dihedral 
Green Panther 
Iggle 
Iggle Direct 
Stoner Homeland 
To The Sun 

Eagle Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,500'
Location: 39.9992, -105.3826 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,732
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Stars and Stripes Wall.
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Eagle Rock is a frequently overlooked crag on the South side of Boulder Canyon. It sits deep in the canyon and across the creek from the road. While the crag is close to 400ft high, only some of the older trad routes extend its full length. Most of the new bolted sport routes are between 80 and 100 feet in length. I found the rock to be a little different from typical Boulder Canyon granite, and some of these unusual features are described in the route descriptions. The main new wall has been called "The Stars and Stripes Wall" by Mark Rolofson in his year 2000 guide to Boulder Canyon. The climbing is vertical to overhanging and generally runs from upper 5.11 to middle 5.13 or so. A few serious projects remain to be red pointed. Mark has done an incredible job of keeping track of the FA data, as is well documented in his guide.

    L->R (incomplete):

    A. Chicken Delight, 8, 2p, gear.
    B. Gros Vogel, 8 A2, 3p, gear.
    C? Iggle, 11, 1p, bolts.
    D? Iggle Direct, 11, 1p, bolts.
    E. Frei Vogel, 9 R, 3p, gear.
    F. Eagle Tricks, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
    G. Eagle Snacks, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
    H. Eagle Chick, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
    I. Eagle Eyes, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
    J. Eagle Hardware, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
    K. Barely Eagle, 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
    KL. Finally Eagle, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts, linkup.
    L. Bald Eagle, 13, 1p, 80', bolts.
    M. Golden Eagle, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
    N. Eagle Warrior, 13, 1p, bolts.
    O. Buddha Belly, 13-, 1p, bolts.
    P1. Green Panther, 12+, 1p, bolts.
    P2. Stoner Homeland, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
    Q?. Screaming War Eagle, 10, 3p, gear.
    R. Great Dihedral, 6, 2p, ~280', gear.
    S. To The Sun, 5, 2p, 300', gear.
    T. Right Face, 5, 2p, gear.


    Getting There 

    Eagle Rock is 6.2 miles up Boulder Canyon. Parking can be found near by and on both sides of the road. Hike down to the stream and cross as you can. A Tyrolean Traverse was still up at the end of last year, and may still be in place. If not, the talus in the stream can be hopped over, or the stream waded. The Stars and Stripes Wall is just about dead center in the middle of the crag and is approached by a good trail that was put in by the new route developers.


    Guidebook 

    Consider Rolofson's Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide for more information.


    21 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',6],['5.12',1],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Rock:
    Authentic Battle Damage Stand   V7-8 7B     Boulder   
    Eagle Snacks   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Eagle Hardware   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Eagle Eyes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Golden Eagle   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Green Panther   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Buddha Belly   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Bald Eagle   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Browse More Classics in Eagle Rock

    Featured Route For Eagle Rock
    T-Shred above the "V-Eagle" opener on Bald Eagle, moving into the headwall on Barely Eagle.

    Bald Eagle 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
    Bald Eagle is the right variant start to Barely Eagle, linking into that climb at the fourth bolt. It climbs past three half-inch bolts in the bulge/roof right off the ledge, above a left-facing dihedral.Clip a low bolt, power to a sidepull, clip again, then engage a "V-Eagle" boulder problem through the pegmatite band to reach the jug rail below the third clip. Hint: think opposition and heel-powered jessery.Stand up past the rail to mellower terrain, then follow the last four bolt...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Photos of Eagle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    Eagle Rock as seen looking Downstream over Cob rock (lower left) from the top of the Lost Flatiron. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K
    BETA PHOTO: Eagle Rock as seen looking Downstream over Cob roc...
    No need for the tyrol right now....
    BETA PHOTO: No need for the tyrol right now....
    Comments on Eagle Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 3, 2014
    By MB
    Mar 11, 2003

    There is a raptor closure on Eagle Rock from Feb 1 through July 31, which includes all lands within 1/8 mile in any direction from the crag.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 16, 2003

    I was up at Eagle Rock looking for the Stars and Stripes Wall today, 10-16-03. I somehow ended up much too far on the north side of the wall and ended up climbing a bolted traverse that went into a dihedral. I was wondering if anyone had any information as to what I was climbing on. By the way, the route was not that cool. Thanks.

    By Tom Lauren
    Nov 26, 2006

    AC: The route is Iggle 11c/d.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 8, 2010

    Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
    www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
    Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

    Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) – The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

    These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

    The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
    For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/rock-climbing/brd/index.sht>>>.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jul 30, 2010

    From the NFS:

    Good afternoon everyone,

    Attached is a press release for the reopening of Eagle Rock. Signs in the area will be removed this Sunday. The golden eagles fledged one young bird last week. We had a very active group of volunteers and employees this year who monitored the nesting progress regularly. If any of you are in the area and happen to see a young eagle flying (with white patches on the wings and tail), I'd love to hear about it! We never get to actually see them fledge, just that they're in the nest and then not.

    Bev Baker
    Wildlife Biologist
    Boulder Ranger District
    2140 Yarmouth Avenue
    Boulder, CO 80301

    303-541-2517
    bbaker@fs.fed.us

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 26, 2012

    From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:

    Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.

    By gregory locker
    Sep 19, 2012

    Left a 5.10 TEAM up at Eagle Rock on 9/14. If you could, please let me know if you find it. Thanks.

    By Taylor Roy
    From: Boulder, Co
    Sep 20, 2012

    Your shoe was still there as of 9/16/12. Good luck!

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 30, 2013

    From the USFS: Boulder, Colo. (Jan, 30 2013)– The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.

    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Feb 3, 2014

    From Bev Baker:

    Date: Feb. 3, 2014

    BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. It is against Federal and State law to disturb any nesting bird of prey.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. “Closures in Boulder Canyon are vitally important to protect one of only a handful of known golden eagle nesting territories in Boulder County. Their specific habitat needs limit what areas they can use for mating and fledging their young,” said Sylvia Clark, Boulder District Ranger. Contact Boulder Ranger District at 303-541-2500 for more information.