Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
High quality single, and multi-pitch, sport climbing on beautiful orange and white granite in the San Diego County backcountry. The area is relatively new, developed in the last 5 years, and is comprised of a large main wall and several other satellite areas. Mainly South facing and over 500 feet high in some places, this is a fantastic winter time destination, about an hour and a half drive from downtown SD.
Currently there is a 2008 guidebook available to Eagle Peak routes. Its published by the Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD) with route topo's and directions to the Eagle Peak Area (the 2 other backcountry climbing destinations in SD County are also included). Find it at REI or at the ACSD website www.alliedclimbers.org/index.php
Getting There
Driving directions are a bit complex: Head out the 8 East from San Diego about 40 minutes, and exit at Descanso for route 79. Take 79 North for 1 mile and turn left on Riverside Drive. In 1 mile turn left on Viejas Grade Rd and immediately right on Oak Grove Drive. In 1.5 miles turn right on Boulder Creek Rd. After 5 miles of pavement and 5 miles of graded dirt, the road crosses Boulder Creek. 2 miles further is the trailhead at a hairpin turn with a gated road and a kiosk. The left hand road leading west on a level ridge is the start of the approach. This is also the start of the hike to the popular Three Sisters Waterfalls.
Approach: About 45 minutes to the summit area. About 45-60 min. to the base of the main wall. Most of this can be made on a mountain bike which cuts the time by about 30 min. Pass the gate and follow the ridge for .5 mile, then down to a saddle where the junction with the Three Sisters Waterfall trail branches to the left. Continue straight ahead to the west and uphill for .5 mile, then down hill for less than .5 mile. The trail leaves the drainage and hooks to the left (south) climbing slightly and traversing around a small ridge. Just after crossing a gully the trail becomes steep and switchbacks right. Within 100 feet you will come to a fork. The trail to the "mail wall" branches left, or stays straight to approach the "summit" area. The "Main Wall" trail gains a pass in another 100 yards then descends 450 vertical feet to the base.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Peak:
Pitch one: Starts with a somewhat chossy 10a "approach pitch" that ascends a slaby groove to a steeper section with a small roof at the finish. Above this is a small alcove and the anchors. From here you can climb up to the right onto "More Funky Than Monkey" or out left to the second pitch of Chango. Pitch two: 11b/c, The second and crux pitch steps left from the belay for a few moves to get established below the headwall. Clip one bolt and ascend the beautiful, steep, pink face for 4 bolts ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Area Closures and Advisories to Protect Nesting Raptors Date(s): Nov 16, 2012 - Jul 1, 2013
There are six raptor nesting sites currently in need of protection. Four of these sites are located on the Cleveland, and two sites on BLM lands. The sites are:
1. Glencliff, Descanso Ranger District, Cleveland National Forest 2. Corte Madera, Descanso Ranger District, Cleveland National Forest 3. Eagle Peak, Palomar Ranger District, Cleveland National Forest 4. Gower Mountain, Palomar Ranger District, Cleveland National Forest 5. Rock Mountain, BLM 6. El Cajon Mountain, BLM
By SCherry From: San Diego, CA Mar 4, 2013 CONDITION REPORT
@Dreifert - these are the standard closures that happen every year for Eagle Peak.
Its only routes West of Direct Route (to the left when looking at the wall) and the Summit area that are closed. There are some good routes over there but by far the premier area at EP is still open (the Right Wall).
Most of the Main Wall (Cruise Line and routes left) and all of the Right Wall is still open to climbing.
Hey San Diego climbers - I just added this area to the database. I'm a Boulder climber that just relocated to SD and have visited Eagle Peak several times. Really rad climbing for the area, and a truly special place. Please add routes and areas if you have climbed here and have good beta. Open to suggestions as well.
I've never seen so many anchors on a wall without rap rings. Is there a reason why at this wall? My partner and I rapped from the top down but had to maneuver from one belay station to another using scattered anchors with rap rings and using bail biners we found on rap anchors/belay stations without them...
Baby face was a prime example. You can climb the first pitch and get to a belay station with rap rings, but you climb another 10 feet up to belay for the 2nd pitch on 3 bolts without rings/chains. After the 2nd pitch you get to another belay station without rings/chains, but then the 4th pitch belay has rings...
RNClimber - Eagle Peak was set up as a multi-pitch area. There are some anchor stations with rap rings or leaver biners but they get moved all the time by people who are trying to rap in like you.
Rapping in from the top is a mistake, especially when it takes all of 5 minutes to walk down to the base with flip flops on. The only reason to do so is if you are trying to project an upper pitch.
The beta is to stash your stuff at the top, rack up, and walk down to the base and climb out. Then you can have a snack and water and do it again. Quite often I climb 10-15 pitches in a day this way.
We installed probably 100 double quicklinks, 2 per bolt, on most belay/rap anchors, and nearly all of them were taken by climbers who don't get it, and think their personal needs are more important. I also had my gear stashes pilfered more than once out there.
After building the trail, cleaning loose rock and dirt off lots of now clean routes, placing 1500 bolts, and placing 100s of dollars of what were supposed to be permanent links for everyone's convenience, my work and investment is done.
If you think there's a problem with the rap anchors - fix it.
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