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Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) 

Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) 

5.10

   
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
FA: Bill Forrest, Frank Luptom, 1976 FFA- Craig Kenyon, Jeff Cristol, 1989
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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South face of Eagle Plume

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Description 

Pitch 1: Begin up a loose 5.8 crack, then a 5.7 off-width to a large ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb broken rock to a small ledge at the base of a small, clean, tight dihedral. Climb the dihedral then traverse a few feet right to a thin crack(blue alien), that guards the anchors.(5.10)
Pitch 3:Climb up some loose rock in the right crack to a dihedral ramp with fun jamming. Then climb up a loose bedding seam to a pin and traverse left to a belay on top of the seam. This is the best pitch on the route.(5.10)
Pitch 4:Climb clean dihedral above to the summit.(5.9)
Descent:Rappel the route. Desert Rock IV says you can also rappel LOLA.


Location 

The route is obviously on the south side. Eagle Feather climbs up the middle of the face. The first pitch starts a little to the right of center.


Protection 

Standard desert free rack.



Photos of Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) Slideshow Add Photo
A shot of me on pitch one. There is some ROTTEN rock on this pitch which makes getting out of that chimney down low feel more exciting than the grade would seem to warrant.

A shot of me on pitch one. There is some ROTTEN ro...

Ben cruising the second pitch which has a THIN crux.

Ben cruising the second pitch which has a THIN cru...

Looking down at Ben on the fun and relatively easy 4th pitch.

Looking down at Ben on the fun and relatively easy...

Here is a close up with the route and belays marked.

BETA PHOTO: Here is a close up with the route and belays marke...


Comments on Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Nov 6, 2006

Check out some great pictures of the route at Brad's web site.
www.piquaclimber.com/past/eagleplume/eagleplume.htm