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Eagle Plume Tower
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Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Forrest, Frank Luptom, 1976 FFA- Craig Kenyon, Jeff Cristol, 1989
Page Views: 2,563
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 6, 2006

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South face of Eagle Plume


Pitch 1: Begin up a loose 5.8 crack, then a 5.7 off-width to a large ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb broken rock to a small ledge at the base of a small, clean, tight dihedral. Climb the dihedral then traverse a few feet right to a thin crack(blue alien), that guards the anchors.(5.10)
Pitch 3:Climb up some loose rock in the right crack to a dihedral ramp with fun jamming. Then climb up a loose bedding seam to a pin and traverse left to a belay on top of the seam. This is the best pitch on the route.(5.10)
Pitch 4:Climb clean dihedral above to the summit.(5.9)
Descent:Rappel the route. Desert Rock IV says you can also rappel LOLA.


The route is obviously on the south side. Eagle Feather climbs up the middle of the face. The first pitch starts a little to the right of center.


Standard desert free rack.

Photos of Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) Slideshow Add Photo
Here is a close up with the route and belays marked.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a close up with the route and belays marke...
A shot of me on pitch one. There is some ROTTEN rock on this pitch which makes getting out of that chimney down low feel more exciting than the grade would seem to warrant.
A shot of me on pitch one. There is some ROTTEN ro...
Looking down at Ben on the fun and relatively easy 4th pitch.
Looking down at Ben on the fun and relatively easy...
Ben cruising the second pitch which has a THIN crux.
Ben cruising the second pitch which has a THIN cru...

Comments on Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Nov 6, 2006

Check out some great pictures of the route at Brad's web site.
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jan 8, 2014

My ascent of this route years ago has really stuck with me as one of my most memorable climbing days ever. This is the best line on the best tower in the Valley of the Gods. It has some great climbing on pitches 2, 3, and 4. It also has some terrible rock on Pitches 1, 2, and 3, but I think that all the climbing 5.9 and up has good gear. Approach this route with respect and the expectation of some do-not-fall situations, and it will reward you with an incredible day.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Mar 5, 2014

The Lola rappel is pretty clean and seems like a good way to avoid getting ropes stuck getting off the tower. The current webbing seemed fine to me but will need to be replaced in the near future.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 23, 2014

We rapped Lola too and the anchor bolts were in good shape, and the tat will definitely need swapped in the near future. Although we used two ropes since we weren't sure, it looked like a single 70m should work fine, but not positive about this! With doubled 70s we hit the large blocky ledge atop the 1st pitch with plenty to spare, and rapped on a single to the ground.
I would have liked to have had two #4 BDs on P1, as the 5.7 part felt a bit more challenging than the grade would suggest and is almost unprotectable without a #4.