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Eagle Falls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adsite Arete T 
Dobsonfly T 
Eagle Has Landed, The T,S 
El Supremo T 
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 
Fipi Lele T,TR 
Gypsy's Curse T 
Lichen or Not T 
Lloyds of Lowville T 
Naked Truth T,TR 
Promiscuous Girl S 
Ravenous T,S 
Red Book T 
Seventeen T 
Soft Maple Times T 
Stihl Water T 

Eagle Falls  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.9051, -75.1959 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,710
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2011
Forecast:
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The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.

Description 

This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is very brittle, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect.

This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so load that communication with a leader is often impossible.

The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which were put up since 2008, so they aren't in the guidebook. Instead, look here: adirondackrock.com/newroutes.h...

Highlights are Class Five, one of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sits above a noisy rapid, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, and El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face.

Getting There 

From Lowville, follow Number Four Road to near its end. About 1/2 mile east of the intersection with Stillwater Road, turn left onto Soft Maple Road. Go about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto another dirt road signed "Beaver River Canoe Route". Drive 1/2 mile and park on the left.

Cross the road, walk down the stairs under the penstock, then follow a trail to the cliff. Wade or swim across (in high water) to the cliff. There is also a wood plank (stashed in the woods) that is used to cross a narrow section of the river across from Ravenous.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.7 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Falls:
Red Book   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Seventeen   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Naked Truth   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Stihl Water   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Lloyds of Lowville   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Eagle Has Landed   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport   
Lichen or Not   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Eagle Falls

Featured Route For Eagle Falls
Shiver Me Timbers is the crack through the roof wi...

Lichen or Not 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Eagle Falls
A super excellent and sustained route that combines hard face climbing with steep cracks. Originally rated .10d, a key hold broke, making the face climbing start considerably more difficult.Climb up the wide crack of Shiver Me Timbers for a few feet, then move right onto the face past 3 bolts to gain a fingertip crack. Continue straight up the crack system with excellent gear and great stemming to a fixed anchor at the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Eagle Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Face
Face
The Swimming hole at the entrance of Eagle Falls C...
The Swimming hole at the entrance of Eagle Falls C...
Face 2
Face 2
These flowers are all over the top of the face.
These flowers are all over the top of the face.

Comments on Eagle Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
By SwineFlew
From: Watertown, NY
Mar 19, 2012
In the Spring the river really flows strongly and can easily sweep you off your feet. Instead of crossing the river where the guidebook says, bring an extra pair of shoes and just walk across the river where it widens. THe easiest spot I have seen is directly in front of you when you walk down the stairs under the green pipe. Your feet will get wet & cold, but thats better than falling in a deeper area and getting swept into the swimming hole.
Slower water to cross, but guaranteed to get your ...
Slower water to cross, but guaranteed to get your feet wet. Directly across from the stairs.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Sep 3, 2012
A very cool area with lots of great climbs on solid, mostly clean rock. We did not know they were doing a release of the river so the river was about 2 feet higher when we left as when we came. I ended up dropping my rope in the river and getting pretty wet to the amusement of the about two hundred people swimming and watching the kayakers.
By katyg628
May 29, 2013
There was a rock climbing accident on route number 23, Stacked. The rock broke under the pressure of the cams in the crack. There are a lot of newly developed and rarely climbed routes here. Be careful with your gear placements and especially anchors. consider using a tree to be extra redundant.

A helmet saved my sister's life without a doubt. Her head hit a downed tree and the helmet caught it and jerked to the side instead of her skull. This is a first hand account. If you have a helmet wear it, if you don't have one get one.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 30, 2013
katyg628: That's terrible about your sister's fall. I second the helmet advice at this cliff. (And, well, for pretty much any cliff.)

In my experience, the rock at Eagle Falls is friable and brittle. I've seen gear placements blow apart cracks that seemed solid. The original routes (and most of those documented in Adirondack Rock) were put in ground-up, have had no additional cleaning, and see very little traffic. Most need a session with a pry bar and scrub brush.

The newer routes (those documented here) have all been meticulously cleaned, prepared, and bolted and are a much safer option. But even on these routes, I recommend following your advice and wearing a helmet.
By NickG
From: Syracuse/Keene, NY
Sep 9, 2013
Flows can be checked here.

americanwhitewater.org/content...