The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.
High above Rockville to the south, the Eagle Crag offers solitude away from the buses and sometimes overbearing tourists. The main tower, dubbed Aunt Jemima or Mrs. Butterworth's (due to its resemblance to these products) is the largest of the group.
The only route (so far) is the west side of the formation. Climb the tower via three pitches passing a few bolted anchors to the spectacular summit. Descend via rappels the same was you climbed up. A minimal rack is needed.
To access this area, drive across the historic Rockville bridge and follow the dirt road as it turns west.
As you travel down this road keep and eye out for a dirt road on the left (south) side of the road. This road will take you to a dirt parking area. Any local can direct you how to get there. Last I knew, you could camp for FREE at this parking area. Times change quickly in this area, so that may not still be the case.
Drive back and forth between Mosquito Cove and Zion enough and you can't help but wonder about that toothy ridge above Rockville.The most exotic-looking tooth, far left on the skyline from the road, has a short and sweet route on the backside path of least resistance. A perfect way to try out Zion sandstone without shuttles, tourists, and big wall logistics. We got beta from a drawn topo at the backcountry ranger desk in Zion and from m.project.The rock formation you climb seems to be called eit...[more]Browse More Classics in UT