Eagle Crack 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Reid Dowdle, Ketchum Crew, 1984 |
| Submitted By: | grk10vq on Sep 18, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Eagle Crack
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Description A profound and aesthetic, single pitch crack with a few tricky moves. Great jams, good gear, and length to boot!
Climb an overlap to a two inch crack in a shallow dihedral. Follow the break heading into an alcove and pull a small roof. Protect and pass the thin and inobvious crux, then continue on another 65 feet using the crack to finish at a chain anchor tucked away to the left just before the top of the butress.
Location Directly left of the bolted Fly Like an Eagle, this is the left most, thinnest and longest crack line.
Protection Slings, stopper, and cams to 4 inches. A 70 meter rope is strongly advised to avoid down climbing.
Tom cruisin' the Eagle Crack
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By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Jul 12, 2010
| Great route. A 70 meter rope works well. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| This route is spectacular. Among the best crack climbs in the park at this grade - on par with Thin Slice in terms of quality and difficulty. It is quite intimidating from the base but goes at an easier effort that you suspect. It climbs like a sport climb with crack protection (except the initial short section of hand crack). A 60 meter rope off the belay to the left is adequate. The climb directly to the right, however, needs a 70 meter rope to return to the ground. |
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