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Eagle Chick 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, Leo Paik, September 1998
Page Views: 782
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 16, 2003

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Mark Roth on Eagle Chick, getting ready for the st...

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  • Description 

    Eagle Chick is another good sport route on the Stars and Stripes Wall. I liked it better than the similarly-graded Eagle Hardware. Eagle Chick has better rock and more interesting moves, and is less pumpy, but still steep. A steep, blank-looking face leads to crux moves entering and exiting a tiny, left-facing corner.

    I'm rating this 11a by Boulder Canyon sport ratings. It would be about 10c by trad ratings, unless you are short, in which case the last move could be pretty hard. Like several other routes here, the easy ground at the bottom seems overbolted.

    Start just right of the "warm up" route, Eagle Snacks, which starts just right of the small pine tree. Over an easy ceiling and up easy rock to another ceiling. Climb a steep unlikely looking face between two thin cracks to good holds. Move right a bit and enter a shallow, short left facing corner. This was the crux for me--the obvious way almost worked, but didn't. Good rest here, then another hard move to exit the corner. This last move may be the crux if you are shorter.

    Protection 

    10 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor with rings.


    Photos of Eagle Chick Slideshow Add Photo
    Stars and Stripes Wall.
    BETA PHOTO: Stars and Stripes Wall.
    In the middle of it.
    In the middle of it.
    Mark working crux.
    Mark working crux.

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