This is Cochiti's "summer crag" offering more shade than other Cochiti crags. There are roughly 30 routes, many of which are in the 5.10/11 range, making this a good crag for intermediate climbers. Routes here tend to be longer than at the Mesa, with one excellent line featuring 13 bolts. Eagle Canyon is also home to Cochiti's hardest route, the excellent test piece Didgemaster.
In the height of summer this crag receives sun until about 1100am. On cooler fall and spring days, a small amount of sun hits the wall in the morning before the shade hits.
The bulk of the routes are on the South side of the canyon, but there are about 4 routes on the North sides of the canyon (3 moderates, and the 5.13 "Nikita"). The North cliff has the same aspect as the rest of the Cochiti cliffs, so these routes receive morning shade and afternoon sun.
The cliff on the South side of the canyon can be easily divided into two sections by a narrow "tunnel" that separates the cliffs between the routes Turkey Baster and Manhattan. This passage offers X-rated (dangerous, not pornographic) access between the two halves. Its also possible (and strongly advised) to use the cliff base trail system to move between the cliffs.
Follow driving directions as for Cochiti Mesa, but park at a big switchback in the road where a sign marks the "Dome Wilderness Trail". Park here but follow a climber's trail that branches off left from the Dome Trail within 20 feet of the parking area. The trail heads West for about 50 feet, then turns right and contours along a steep slope for several hundred yards, before turning left (W) into the mouth of Eagle Canyon. Continue up the mouth of the canyon for 5 minutes until the cliffs are visible on the left. Several poorly-defined trails lead up to various points along the cliff-base.
The above approach is probably the best option for most users, but there is now a new approach option for those headed to the western most routes (the routes near Bunga Bunga). This "trail" is hard to follow and requires walking through an abundance of shrubbery, but it is fast. Continue up the road a bit. The road will get very steep, turn to the left, then switchback to the right. You will drive through a narrow cleft, and then the road turns hard left again. Park in this area. From the left switchback, an abandoned road grade climbs a steady slope to the NW. Follow an intermittent trail along this road for about 5 minutes, at which point pink flagging should appear to the right. Follow this flagging in a bushwhacking fashion to the top (W) end of Eagle Canyon. This 'trail' should deposit you just above the route Didgemaster. Good idea to wear long pants for this approach.
Routes (From Left to Right)
The first 9 routes are accessed from the first split off on the Eagle Canyon trail.
Maalox Moment (5.11a)
Killer Bee (5.9+)
Indecent Insertion (5.12b)
New Wave (5.11c)
Old Wave (5.9)
Tutti Frutti (5.11a)
After the second trail cut off, routes 10 and 11 are on the left side of a tunnel. One can also access these climbs by continuing down and to the right of the tunnel, then walking back up and through it.
Jug Abuse (5.12a)
Turkey Baster (5.10c)
After the right side of the tunnel
The next climbs continue after the base trail meets with the trail along the crag.
Unnamed Left (5.11b)
Top Hat (5.11c)
The Blade (5.12a/b)
Unnamed Right (5.11a)
Handsome Parish Lady (5.13a)
Climbs 18-22 are accessed by continuing up the trail past climb #17, then taking a left branch trail back up and left toward the crag.
E Plurbus Cruxi Unam Pumpus (5.11b)
Racist Fantasy (5.12a)
Omdulation Fever (5.12c)
Are You Lichen It? (5.11c)
Continue on the main trail to access climbs 23-25.
Earth Monster (5.11d)
Psycho Thriller (5.11c)
After a break in the crags, you will see climb 26. Climb number 30 is accessed by continuing to the end of the crag and walking around and up.
The Wrong Mr. Wong (5.8)
Ego Maniac (5.11c)
Mr. Wong's Zipper (5.10b)
Bunga Bunga (5.12a)
Directly across the canyon, there is a small gully. There are 4 additional climbs here. Again, climbs are listed from left to right as you face the crag.
Black Streak (5.10c/d)
Nikita (5.13) – Climb is ~100’ left of Hanging the Dog
Hanging the Dog (5.11b)
24 Total Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Eagle Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Canyon:
Manhattan 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 82'
Bananarama 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Eagle Canyon
Handsome Parish Lady 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c NM
: Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
: Eagle Canyon
This is a fine route in an idyllic, secluded canyon. The stone is excellent and it hasn't suffered the erosion that other popular Cochiti routes like Touch Monkey and Gunning for the Budda have over the years. The route is also uncommonly steep, with big, positive holds. Start on some steep (for Cochiti) jug hauling up good, incut pockets. The route soon rolls over onto a slab and so begins the crux section, with a few hard pulls on shallow, slopey pockets with techn...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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