Eagle Buttress, Left  5.8

791 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 600 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  P. Berry, R. Linnett, 1956 Submitted By:  Blitzo on Mar 21, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map: 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the first Buttress, coming from the east. Begin in a gully on the right side of the buttress. A left-diagonaling, 5.7 traverse, leads to a crack system, near the buttress center. Belay from a small pillar, about 30' up the crack. Another pitch, leads to Main Ledge. Walk left to the large corner formed by the side of the buttress. Climb a chimney until it becomes too narrow, then move (5.8) into a thin crack on the left. Pass an overhang and soon belay. Either continue up the corner, or climb a hand crack, to an arete, which leads to a sloping area in a gully. Continue to the top.

Protection 

Pro to 3".