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Eagle Bluff

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All seriousness aside  S 
Alleyway T 
Amber Waves of Grain S 
Another Bolted Face Climb S 
Attitude Adjuster T 
Bivy Route S 
Blaze of Glory S 
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 
Corner Line T 
Crankcase T,S,TR 
Delirious S 
Eagle Direct T,S 
Eagle Has Landed, The S 
Eagle's Gift, The S 
Easy Stuff T 
Element 115 S 
Entrance Exam S 
Happy Face S 
highlander T,S 
Longitudinal Wave S 
No Rest for the Wicked S 
Pried and Joy T,S 
Punks in the Gunks T,S 
Reckless Abandon S 
Root of Choice T 
Route Awakening S 
Slice of the Gunks T 
Talus Scout S,TR 
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 
Texas Two Step T,S 
Upside down staircase T 
Walk on the Mild Side S 
Wave Guide S 
What's In a Name? S 
Wheaties S 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Witch Wonder T 

Eagle Bluff 


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Page Views: 8,366
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008
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Description 

Eagle Bluff is CLiftons most popular and well known climbing area with over 130 routes. Climbers of all kind will find enjoyable lines, with the majority of the routes ranging from 5.9-5.11 sport.


Getting There 

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. Just after a gated gravel road on the left, look for a small dirt pullout and the approach trail.


Climbing Season


37 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',6],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Bluff:
Easy Stuff   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Pried and Joy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Witch Wonder   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Upside down staircase   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Slice of the Gunks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Walk on the Mild Side   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Happy Face   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Crankcase   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Tax Is Too Steep   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Bivy Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Wheaties   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Eagle's Gift   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
highlander   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 165'   
Attitude Adjuster   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Entrance Exam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Chinese Water Torture Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Blaze of Glory   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Where Eagles Dare   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Eagle Direct   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Eagle Bluff

Featured Route For Eagle Bluff
Crux Roof of Eagle's Gift

The Eagle's Gift 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff
An awesome route with thin slab/face climbing plus a small roof.Start up a slab trending slightly left past bolts and some small ledges to base of roof. Pull over the roof to an alcove and move right to an airy bolt anchor around corner. 165' of rope will just get you back to the ground....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

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Show which comments
By Travis Dustin
From: Hollis, NH
Jul 6, 2012

What is the approach like?

By Scott Brown
Oct 29, 2012

10-15 minutes

By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Feb 10, 2014

https://www.kintera.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.8976537/k.8718/>>>

Eagle bluff is currently closed due to access issues. Please follow this link and donate as much as you can to help save this amazing area.

By nealg
Jun 16, 2014

Anyone know the current access status of Eagle Bluff in Clifton? Climbed there 15+ years ago and was returning for a Maine trip.

Open or closed?

thx!

By maineah
From: Maine
Jun 25, 2014

As far as I know, permanent access is being negotiated and Eagle's is open for now

By nealg
Aug 13, 2014

Definitely open. Just spent a day there last week after an 18 year hiatus. Was shocked how much lichen was on many of the classics.

Why is the place getting so little traffic? It is my favorite place in ME.