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E Section: Shifenggala (“Crevice Corner”)

E Section: Shifenggala (“Crevice Corner”)  


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Submitted By: RyderS on Apr 25, 2013
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Description 

Shifenggala is one of the more remote crags in the Wanxian Mountain Park. It is situated to the south of Nanping Village. However, given the three of the most remote established crags in the area, Danfengou, Zhuangao are more remote than Shifenggala. I did not find out to much about this crag from some of the local climbers I met in the area. However, the topos from one of the Chinese guidebooks indicates that it should be close to an established trail. That being said, be wary of the fact that the trail might not be conspicuous. Trails do not receive regular maintenance unless they are part of the heavily used scenic area paths. Also, these paths might be overgrown depending on how heavily the area receives foot traffic.

o E1: 从地狱到天党 (Cong Diyu Dao Tiandang) “From Heaven to Hell”
• 5.10c, 28 meters, 1 pitch
• Sport/Trad (4 bolts + anchor)
• FA: 小河, 2006/7
• Equipped by: 小河,伍鹏 (Freewind)

o E2: ATS
• 5.12a, 26 meters
• Sport (10 bolts + Anchor)
• FA: 装缝 2005/7
• Equipped by: 小河, 装缝 2005/7

o E3: 死跑龙套的 (Singpaolongtaode) “Death Plays Only a Small Role”
• 5.10b, 24 meters
• Sport (8 bolts + anchor)
• FA: 原上草,2005/7
• Equipped: 王二,2005/7

o E4: 南昆小路 (Nankunxiaolu) “Nankun Route”
• 5.10a, 33 meters, 2 pitches (5.9, 15m; 5.10a, 18m)
• Trad
• 1st pitch: Gear anchor, 2nd pitch: Tree anchor
• FFA: 2005,7
• Bring 2 60m or 1 70m rope to rap down.
• One of the local guidebooks has a line that roughly translates as: “When you reach the top of the route, cross 10 meters through the bushes to Nankun Paths.” It is unknown if this pertains to anchors or the rappel line. I do not assume it to be a walk-off, since I don’t think it reaches the top of the cliff even though this crag occupies a shorter section of cliff.

Getting There 

(See area description)

Climbing Season



Weather station 21.7 miles from here


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