E) Deer Bait
|660 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus: ||M6-7 [details]|
|FA: ||James Loveridge|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter Mixed / Fall Drytooling|
|Submitted By: ||James Loveridge on Jan 17, 2008|
BETA PHOTO: Deer Bait (Feb '08)
Look for a super chossy ramp/pedestal at the base of a shallow dihedral. There is a big flake that you can see at the top that you folow up and right for about 10 feet untill you reach the ice.
The start is a little stout compared to the rest but once on it, yer happy as a deer eating rotten carrots! Start by climbing up the right side of the rampy ledge to clip first bolt. Think about German beer serving levers to make the moves up into the broken hanging flake feature of the dihedral. Yard up on a few pick gobbling slots to chossy section under bulge. Pull bulge moving left to gain a sweet stance on a little pedestal. Follow crack up and right following giant flake on bomber pick placements (sometimes too bomber as they get stuck easily!) to the ice curtain. Pull curtain on the right side. Anchors are on a block on the right side of the ice.
8 Quickdraws for bolts.
Deer Bait in full spring conditions. Adam and Kate...
Adam on Deer Bait.
Adam on Deer Bait. Difficult top-out.
|By Shawn Tracy|
Jan 17, 2011
When the ice is thin on the exit (when not formed immediatley above last bolt, but only out left) or when it's seen alot of consecutive sunny days and is lifted from the rock, plan on a very challenging finish pulling over the lip.