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Gendarmes
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DZ's Electrifying Entrance 

DZ's Electrifying Entrance 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Carter and David Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Dan Carter on Mar 22, 2013
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David climbing the third pitch with tricky, choss ...

Description 

Pitch 1: Chossy chimney. Can be soloed but it's airy and loose.
Pitch 2: This is the pitch that drew me to the climb. It is a hand crack with an off width to the right of it. One can see the crack from the saddle. When the crack runs out move around left to some slab and more crack to a belay on a large ledge.
Pitch 3: We went up the left crack. The rock is not so good and the climbing is kind of tricky but fun. The top has like a South Dakota Needles summit perch.


Location 

The route begins on the lowest section on the west side of the Gendarmes. It can be seen from the saddle. Look for the chimney and the hand crack.

We left some webbing to rap the route but one could also walk off or setup a better rappel. The first rappel is below the actual summit block and the second is on the west face. Feel free to use the gear up there if you want to move it to a better location.


Protection 

A double rack worked fine. All sizes. Could probably do it with a single rack.



Photos of DZ's Electrifying Entrance Slideshow Add Photo
The route begins down and to the left in a corner/chimney. The second pitch is the crack up to a large plateau. Continue up the west facing blocks and cracks to the summit.
BETA PHOTO: The route begins down and to the left in a corner/...
The first pitch goes up the corner/chimney. Some harder and less protectable options could go up the west face and into the roof and cracks.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch goes up the corner/chimney. Some h...
Me on the summit perch.
Me on the summit perch.
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