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DZ's Electrifying Entrance
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
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Routes in Gendarmes
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DZ's Electrifying Entrance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flight of Icarus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shortcut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dan Carter and David Johnson |
| Page Views: | 780 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Carter on Mar 22, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Pitch 1: Chossy chimney. Can be soloed but it's airy and loose.
Pitch 2: This is the pitch that drew me to the climb. It is a hand crack with an off width to the right of it. One can see the crack from the saddle. When the crack runs out move around left to some slab and more crack to a belay on a large ledge.
Pitch 3: We went up the left crack. The rock is not so good and the climbing is kind of tricky but fun. The top has like a South Dakota Needles summit perch.
Pitch 2: This is the pitch that drew me to the climb. It is a hand crack with an off width to the right of it. One can see the crack from the saddle. When the crack runs out move around left to some slab and more crack to a belay on a large ledge.
Pitch 3: We went up the left crack. The rock is not so good and the climbing is kind of tricky but fun. The top has like a South Dakota Needles summit perch.
Location
The route begins on the lowest section on the west side of the Gendarmes. It can be seen from the saddle. Look for the chimney and the hand crack.
We left some webbing to rap the route but one could also walk off or setup a better rappel. The first rappel is below the actual summit block and the second is on the west face. Feel free to use the gear up there if you want to move it to a better location.
We left some webbing to rap the route but one could also walk off or setup a better rappel. The first rappel is below the actual summit block and the second is on the west face. Feel free to use the gear up there if you want to move it to a better location.
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