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 ADVANCED
Pedestal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Way T 
Angle of the Dangle T 
Assume the Position T,TR 
Beginning, The T,TR 
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 
Blow-up T,TR 
Chimney's End T,TR 
Condolences T 
Congratulations T,TR 
Creation Crack T 
D.L.F.A T 
Dog, The TR 
Dyslexia TR 
End Of The End, The TR 
End, The T,TR 
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 
F4 Ledges T 
Flake Route T,TR 
Golden Ledges T 
Hourglass T,TR 
Hourglass Direct TR 
Ironmongers T 
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 
Lethe T 
Lower Diagonal T,TR 
Modern Art TR 
Pedestal, The T,TR 
Pete's Lament TR 
Pine Box T 
Rich and Famous TR 
Sometime Crack T,TR 
Sometime Direct T 
Sometimes Left Side TR 
Sometimes Right T 
Stretcher, The TR 
Sweatshop T,TR 
Upper Diagonal T,TR 
Welfare Line TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Dyslexia 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dave Groth
Season: any
Page Views: 1,935
Submitted By: David A Groth on Oct 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Moving into the first crux. Photo: T.Melin

Description 

Climbs slight arete between sometimes left side and DF. Cross blow up and finish on the upper wall of sometimes crack.


Protection 

Top rope



Photos of Dyslexia Slideshow Add Photo
Travis sticking the second crux.
Travis sticking the second crux.
Travis Melin sticking the first crux.
Travis Melin sticking the first crux.
Near the top.
Near the top.
Melin, heartbreakingly close!!!  May 09.
Melin, heartbreakingly close!!! May 09.
Comments on Dyslexia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 13, 2009

This route is full on! More bouldery than other D. Lake 13's. Travis came one fall from sending this thing yesterday. Really strong effort on Trav's part, what a great route.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Apr 17, 2009
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Thanks Remo, yea I thought one falling a route meant that the next attempt would be a send.... No such luck there, I 'one falled' 6 times yesterday! All from the last move to the jug. So frustrating! But what an awesome route to project!

By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
May 4, 2009

Nice job Travis! It great to see these routes being done...The thing is really bouldery and you need some good sustained power to finish it. Very cool!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Aug 27, 2009

I overheard someone calling this "hard 14a. almost 14b" last Saturday. Is that true? I'm not gonna hop on it (yet!!!) but the grade discrepancy seems strange

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

So what is the official ending of this route? After the business you hit the big horizontal crack 10 ft below the top. Do you just finish by the easiest path, or does it traverse right in the horizontal and then up?