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Franklin Gorge
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Dynosaurus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 980
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jun 29, 2009

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Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very striking looking line! When you see it, you'll want to climb it! Start in the corner on a platform about 6 ft above the trail. Reach left, clip the first bolt, and traverse left on to the arete. Climb up the overhanging arete using very positive holds until you can gain a stance on the right of the arete. (no hands rest here). Once you shake out, head up left to find some small holds on the left side of the arete and climb straight up to reach the roof (crux). From here, pull the roof, find the jugs, and continue to the top. This is a pretty good first 5.12a for someone breaking into the grade as the crux is brief, and you get an amazing rest before it. Super fun!!


Location 

This route climbs the overhanging arete on the right side of the first major formation in the Contact Zone area. It's located about 15 yds to the right of Potential Energy.


Protection 

7 bolts, shuts.



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By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 11, 2010

This would be a proud first 12a for anyone and solid at the grade in my opinion. Definitely the best route I did at this crag. And a pretty classic 5.12 if it was located at any crag.

By David Raines
Jun 29, 2013

My second 5.12a. Solid climb.

The crux is a hard crimp for your right hand, probably the hardest crimp I've done, but I only recently broke into 5.12. Outside of the (kind of nasty) crux, its fun mid-grade 5.11 climbing.

Its pretty well bolted, I seem to remember that none of the clips were all that hard. A little hard to get the bolt below the crux in, but once you get it, the crux isn't too hard to cheat past, if you decide you're in over your head.