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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Unsorted Routes:

Dynosaur 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, 5/88
Page Views: 1,116
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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G. Schuler low on the "Dyno".

Description 

What a great name! I wouldn't say I did any "soaring", but there definitely was some dynoing. A powerful and desperate boulder problem getting to the second bolt defines this route. Vastly easier and enjoyable jug hauling gets you to the top from there. The guidebook warns about blowing the second clip, but the clip can be made from huge jugs. I think you could make the argument that most routes anywhere would put you in a bad spot if you blew the second clip!

Location 

This is two routes left of Bucket Slave.

Protection 

Bolts, stick clip.


Photos of Dynosaur Slideshow Add Photo
Glenn Schuler on the "Dyno".
Glenn Schuler on the "Dyno".
Dynosoar, 5.12, setting up for the launch.
Dynosoar, 5.12, setting up for the launch.
A second dyno.
A second dyno.
Upper face moves.
Upper face moves.

Comments on Dynosaur Add Comment
Show which comments
By AndyMac
From: Center, CO
Apr 21, 2011

Does this route start from the block out left? Is it Dyno-soar?
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 2, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This should get retrobolted. Deck if you blow the first, deck if you blow the second, deck if you blow the third. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?
By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Dec 2, 2012

Keep an eye out for any more anchor-fixing events down there and be sure to put that idea forward then too.
By Brent Butler
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2013

Nathan, what do you suggest for a correction?

As I remember it, there isn't much of an opportunity to clip a bolt between the current 1st and 2nd. Sure this creates a bit of a hazard, but even if there was a supplementary bolt, I'd probably skip it since it would be mid-crux, and as for getting to the 3rd? It's 4th class relative to what you just climbed through... don't fall off the giant buckets.

On the other hand, I wouldn't be totally opposed to another bolt in the upper portion past the bulge. I have done it in its current state, but it is a little scary.
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Man... I can't remember enough of it to make a suggestion, but if I recall, I would have liked to have seen the second and third clips moved down. I wasn't too bummed about the upper section as the climbing is all there and the fall isn't dangerous.
By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 14, 2013

I would agree with Mike Anderson in his description. Almost any Sport route has potential for decking if you blow a low clip. That being said ... the clips are made from the best spots available as I recall. Sometimes climbing is actually scary and hard. Do your best not to fall off. Enjoy.