Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
dyneema or nylon tricams?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Feb 25, 2010
Kilroy

was looking at diversifying my rack of gear, something other than cams and nuts/hexes, and have decided on getting some tricams, not a lot just the 4 pack, but i dont know whether to just get the nylon slung set, or pay another ten bucks for the dyneema. i looked at the ratings and the dyneema is actually heavier than the nylon, but the dyneema has a 2 KN advantage in the camming form over the nylon......soooooooo. what to do?


FLAG
By sunder
From Alsip, Il
Feb 26, 2010
ICE PIT 2011

Get the Dyneema Tricams. .5 to 2.0 are dyneema only, everything else is nylon.

Add the .25, 2.5, and 3.0 if you have the extra cash.


FLAG
By Joshua Balke
From Colorado Springs
Feb 26, 2010
Ingraham glacier

I'm gonna disagree here. Go with nylon. I've used both. The nylon is stiffer and allows for easier placement and extraction especially in the smaller sizes which are used generally. The dyneema will just piss you off futzing around with it.


FLAG
By Jamie Henrichsen
From Lake Morena, CA
Feb 26, 2010
Mexican Border Fence

Just get some tricams. I have both dyneema and nylon slung sets. I can't say I notice any difference in stiffness or weight.

Make sure you know how to place and remove them. Also make sure your second knows how to remove them too.


FLAG
By Marc-Andre
From Squamish, B.C
Feb 27, 2010

Make sure you buy the small sizes.... they are the most useful. Fucking awesome in horizontals and pockets!


FLAG
By Jay F. Weekly
Feb 28, 2010
Tasting @ New Belgium Brewing

Going to put in another vote for the nylon tricams. The added stiffness helps a lot in placement, and strength isn't really a factor, although they might show a bit more wear over time than the dyneema ones.

As for sizes, listen to everybody else- just get the small pieces and be done with it!


FLAG
By al piner
Mar 5, 2010
Lk Minnewaska



Use the stiffy mod if your worried about them flopping.


FLAG
By cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
Mar 5, 2010
Casual Route Pitch 3  <br />Photo by Mark Cushman

I have nylon tricams and have put small tubular webbing over them to protect them from wear. Much like al piner's idea, but webbing instead. Go with the nylon, save a couple bucks your going to get one or two stuck at some point anyway. :)


FLAG
By "H"
From Manitou Springs
Mar 5, 2010
Axes glistening in the sun

The nylon tricams are stiffer therefore (IMO) making easier to place. the dyneema are flimsy


FLAG
By Rick Blair
From Denver
Mar 5, 2010
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

I've been patiently waiting for someone to chime in and tell you not buy them because tricams suck and you should simply buy a triple rack of C4s and offset aliens instead, because we all have the money for that.


FLAG
By Sam Feuerborn
From Durango, CO
Mar 5, 2010
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09

oh man Rick, if you've got that kinda money laying around i'll trade you a great day of being your belay bitch for a set of offset aliens. Just throwing that out there.


FLAG
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Mar 5, 2010
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

Rick Blair wrote:
I've been patiently waiting for someone to chime in and tell you not buy them because tricams suck and you should simply buy a triple rack of C4s and offset aliens instead, because we all have the money for that.


I was just going to add this. Save your money and buy one cam. You'll get more use out of the cam.


FLAG
By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Mar 5, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

yeah, I bought a handfull of tricams (4) and ended up selling them 2 months ago. I found that I never really wanted to spend time fiddling in a tricam where I could place a cam in 1/8 the time. also, when I ended up getting a tricam in they often would fall out (that might just because I'm a tricam noob) save the money and buy a cam, you'll use it more.


FLAG
By Cota
From Bend OR
Mar 5, 2010

There are some places that you can ONLY use a tricam...Think Sundevil Chimney...Pink is the only clean piece that will work in some of those pockets...one on you rack is worth it. Plus, you can use it in a belay and save the cams for climbing!


FLAG
By Scott O
From California
Mar 31, 2010
Batman Pinnacle

I use the nylons. It wasn't a decision that I thought much about - they just happened to be on sale. I like them a lot and, while I've climbed with my buddy's dyneema ones, didn't notice much difference.

As everyone has said, small sizes rock.


FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2010
Bocan

Jay Knower wrote:
I was just going to add this. Save your money and buy one cam. You'll get more use out of the cam.


Not to get the whole "passive vs. cams" argument going, but I love em. Sure they don't get placed a ton, but when they do...BOY are they bomber!!

I find I use them a bunch in CO in the shallow and flaring cracks. Nuts don't work and the crack isn't deep enough for a cam...voila!!! A few good yanks to set the caming motion, long sling and you have a pretty bomber downward pull piece.

ME GUSTA!


FLAG
By Timothy Nolan
From Vermont
Apr 6, 2010

al piner wrote:
Use the stiffy mod if your worried about them flopping.

Doing this RIGHT NOW.


FLAG
By Mike Baetz
Apr 6, 2010
Hiking in

In the for or against debate over tricams, I am for. Can't say much about nylon vs. dyneema (mine are nylon, but haven't used dyneema).

If nothing else, they are great as another passive chock- I find they work better than nuts in many situations.

If you climb anywhere that has a lot of horizontal cracks or little pockets, most find them useful there as active placements.

Bottom line is I rarely go more than a pitch in 75% of trad climbing areas without placing one. Caveat: this is coming from someone that doesn't lead any harder than 5.9 trad, so I usually am less concerned about whether I need to fire something in quickly.


FLAG
By Tyson Anderson
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 6, 2010
Rapping from the top of Cat in the hat

I find that it can be hard to tell the difference between the red and pink dyneema tri-cams.

The color difference is clear as day with the nylon ones and those are the only two I really ever use.


FLAG
By cjdrover
From Somerville, MA
Apr 6, 2010
Taken at MWV Icefest 2014.

While I admittedly do not place them often while actually leading a pitch, I love having the rack of four of them when it comes time to build a gear anchor and I just burned all my cams sewing up the crux. Same with hexes - I don't fiddle with them much mid-pitch, but use them all the time for gear anchors (which you are *generally* building from a decent stance).

Some day I'll man up and learn to use my passive pro during desperate moves, but today is not that day! =)

-Chris


FLAG
By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2010
Bastille Crack Final Pitch

Chris Drover wrote:
While I admittedly do not place them often while actually leading a pitch, I love having the rack of four of them when it comes time to build a gear anchor and I just burned all my cams sewing up the crux. Same with hexes - I don't fiddle with them much mid-pitch, but use them all the time for gear anchors (which you are *generally* building from a decent stance). Some day I'll man up and learn to use my passive pro during desperate moves, but today is not that day! =) -Chris


+1

I'm much the same way. I carry the tiny white, black, pink and red tri cams. Whenever I'm doing multipitch, I try to use them for anchors so I will still have all my cams for leading. They can be bomber in the right rock and with the right placement, but are kinda finicky for use on lead. That being said, I met a guy in red rocks leading only with nuts and tricams. I made a joke to him and his response was, "If you can't place a tricam, you're in over your head".

I'm not sure I agree with that philosophy, but it is pretty badass. His fore-arms were about the thickness of my neck though, so I think he had an advantage.


FLAG
By flynn
Apr 6, 2010

We've been using the nylon TriCams for years and have nothing but good to say about 'em. In the Flatirons near Boulder, they're often the only thing that'll go into (and stay in) the dubious cracks. Our usual Flatiron rack, which tends to be the same as our alpine rack, is four or five TriCams, a few little Wallnuts and maybe one springy thing. Worked great on the Complete Exum and the Petit Grepon, among other outings.


FLAG
By Evan1984
Apr 6, 2010

Jay Knower wrote:
I was just going to add this. Save your money and buy one cam. You'll get more use out of the cam.


disagree. I place the pink more than most of my cams.


FLAG
By Derek W
Apr 6, 2010
First summit of First Flatiron

al piner wrote:
Use the stiffy mod if your worried about them flopping.



Timothy Nolan wrote:
Doing this RIGHT NOW.


My gf is a fan of the stiffy mod too. She's always fretting about flopping......


FLAG
By Reece Henson
From Knoxville, TN
Jul 7, 2010
Photo by Paul Hassell

Evan1984 wrote:
disagree. I place the pink more than most of my cams.


pink tricams are the best piece of pro. fit where nothing else does especially great in horizontals. and the nylon is much easier to place and clean since it's much stiffer. you can tape the dyneema ones to stiffen them up if you're having a stiffness problem :)


FLAG
By Larry S
Jul 7, 2010
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

I have a set of the dyneema's, and some extras of the red and pink in nylon; purchased all around the same time. I wish they were all nylon. The dyneema webbing on mine snags and pulls on everything and looks completely beat up. I want to re-sling them with nylon. It's like they didn't pull/wind the yarns tight enough. The nylon wears great, they look brand new and I place them more often. Your results may vary, just my 2 cents.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>