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 ADVANCED
Physical Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bacon and Ergs T,TR 
Bacon Bits T 
Crown Joules T,TR 
Dyne and Dash T,TR 
EarthQuark T,TR 
Ergonomics T 
Fission Chips T,TR 
Ohm on the Range T 
Pole Vault T 
Watts For Dinner T 
Watts Left Over T 

Dyne and Dash 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: C. Fitch & A. Sharp, 1980
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2004

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The route starts with a very long reach at the red...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This strange route has some cool moves, but isn't worth the effort of doing. Not so much that the route is so bad, but more that it takes some serious effort, and the route is not that good either. If the routes I did on the upper-right side fo Physical Crag, this was the least worthy.

This route lies about 1/2 way between Ohm On the Range and Crown Joules. Start from Crown Joules and climb up and left on a ramp, capped by a bulge. As the ramp disappears, so does the bulge, and it can be pulled through at it's left hand edge. From above, climb the moderate slab (5.7?) to the top.

We TR'd this climb from the Crown Joules anchor with no directional (on a whim) a fall would have produced a nasty and spectacular swing and would have trashed my rope. Best to set a directional, or not fall at all.

Protection 

A few TCUs or stoppers could be had if you trust them in the shattered placements.You can rig a TR from the top, but it would be difficult. The best solution would be to hang it from the Crown Joules anchor, then put in a directional if you can find one, just above this route's line. Better yet, just don't risk a fall.


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