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The Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andrology T,S 
CG's Naked Fun Time S 
Dynamometer T,S 
East of Eden T,TR 
Edge of Time S,TR 
Lost Time T,S 
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 

Dynamometer 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Andy Brown, 1995
Page Views: 2,920
Submitted By: Matt Juth on May 9, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.

Upda...

Description 

[This is a combination of 2 submissions by Jeff Lockyer & M Juth]

This route is located on the right hand side of the trail, just before arriving at the Fin (left side of trail), just before reaching the top of the trail. There are 2 obvious pine trees out right, this route starts just uphill of the leftmost tree. The climbing follows a pocketed wall on fun moves to the 2nd bolt, from here there is an obvious pocket for a piece of gear. From here, climb past the 3rd bolt and up to a 2 bolt anchor for the route just right of this line. You can clip one of the bolts on this anchor and continue to the top of the wall past 2 more bolts, a little run out on the top half of the wall with the crux coming very near the top with dyno for those under 6'. The top of the route could use a bolt or 2 more to make the route more enjoyable for all. Good climbing, on a wall with some loose flakes, beware of these, and pull down not out. Dynamometer begins with the first line of bolts right of Andrology. The "studs" have been replaced with good bolts; however, bring a medium cam for the horizontal crack after bolt 3. This climb, like Andrology, feels like it was bolted on lead with some fall potential.

Climb behind the small tree past the first bolts, place a cam and head for the shut above. Some moves felt 10'ish, one with the cam well below your feet. Go up the headwall on beautiful gold rock, that apperars to be loose, but is actually solid. The crux sections begin with a vertical flake, moves past a bolt, and then the "Dyno". At 5'8" I was able to work my feet high enough to just deadpoint for the hold. The final moves to the top are are cruxy as well.

[Eds. There is current a 2 bolt anchor on top. One has a rap ring & the other is a Metolius rap hanger. The pull is not easy.]


Protection 

[Eds. Now this route can be climbed with clipping 8 bolts (including the anchor from the route just to the right) and one #1 Camalot placed between 2nd & 3rd bolt.]


Location 

This is the second line just right of the arete, Edge of Time. It is the 2nd bolted line from the left on this face.



Photos of Dynamometer Slideshow Add Photo
Andrew Klein following up to the top of 'Dynomometer (11b)' at Jurrasic Park. Here he is fighting through the steep crux. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2006.
Andrew Klein following up to the top of 'Dynomomet...
Andrew Klein follows down low on 'Dynamometer (5.11b)' on the Fin, in Jurassic Park. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2006.
Andrew Klein follows down low on 'Dynamometer (5.1...
Just past the crux at the top, fun climbing and great position!
Just past the crux at the top, fun climbing and gr...
Comments on Dynamometer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Dickey
May 2, 2006

I really enjoyed this route-- interesting moves the whole way up, and the dyno was well, a DYNO. The moves above felt hard, also. Good value climb.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2006

For those who don't want to dyno on this move, two of my short friends did the move totally static.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Done in a single-pitch, this is about as cool as a single pitch gets.
As for gear, there are plenty of bolts on the route and although I took cams with me but forgot I had them - I didn't feel pressed to place them at all. In fact, I skipped a few clips on what would have been the first pitch anyway so I'd have the slings later.
Clipping only the left-most bolt of the "P1 anchor" with a longer sling and continuing up the route seemed to be the nice way to go- and it was. No drag, no big pauses in the action. Passing another bolt though some easy climbing, you reach the crux bolt and do the crux move. You can dyno it, you can static it, but moving up and dead-pointing looked the easiest and was not too bad. The hands can come up to some intermediate holds on the way to the big edge and that helps a lot. Past the big edge, there are good holds to the top. If not for the pump, I'd bet we'd all be calling them 9+ or so, but with the pump they are more difficult.
A single 60m line will get you to the ground- but the ropes are hard to pull because the anchors are over the top. Probably better to walk off.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 12, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Yesterday my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can easily lower off and pull your rope without having to walk off.
Enjoy!

By Cale Farnham
Sep 29, 2008

Stellar climb! The dyno seemed sketch city, but like Adam said above a static move is very doable! 2 thumbs up!

By Johnny D
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 5, 2010

Don't be misled, it can be done onsight static if you look around for the right hands and feet. Supplemented the draws with a #2 Camalot and grey #00 Mastercam.

By Brent Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Take a #1 c4 for the horizontal. A lot of the route is 5.9. The crux though felt harder then 11b to me, but I didnt even consider a dyno - I crimped hard out left. In hindsight now with the information given above, a dyno or deadpoint seems much more appropriate here.

By Eric Carlos
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

BETA warning----No dyno needed. I am 5'6", and I just got a small right hand crimp undercling and got my feet high. It was a stretch but very slow and static.