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Critical View
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Critical View S 
Dykes Next Door S 

Dykes Next Door 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Piana/Badaracco
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: Dan Dewell on Aug 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Anonymous Climber Free solos Dykes Next Door 3-2-1...

Check NPS for Closures

Description 

Dykes Next Door is to the left of Critical View starting underneath two parallel and diagonally running dykes. the first fifteen feet are the crux of the climb with a 5.9 portion to the top.

From South Seas sign-in, walk left on trail (toward Wrinkled Rock campground) for approximately 50 meters and Critical View will be on your right.

Very fun climb!

Protection 

Five draws is sufficient.


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By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Aug 30, 2002

This is a very good climb. However, I bet that I have seen at least 4 different people deck while clipping the second bolt. The second bolt is still in the crux, and when yarding out slack to clip, it is easy to fall. Nobody seems to get hurt because the landing is good and it is not that far of a fall.
By Brad Boner
Oct 23, 2003

It's worth noting that there are no anchors at the top of this climb (at least there wern't this spring), but the anchors on the top of Critical View are easily accessable. It's best to have someone second this route to clean the draws.
By Brad Boner
Nov 16, 2003

To correct my own comments, I was just on this climb today and it appears that someone recently added anchors at the top. Many thanks to the individual who put them there. Also, I think this route could use one more bolt between number 4 and 5. Although the climbing in that section is relitavely easy (5.8ish), falling just before the fifth bolt could result in a nasty deck on the small ledge below. Just a thought...
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 18, 2003

We can thank the hard work of Ron Yahne on the installation of the bomber set of anchors and thank The Black Hills Climbing Collation for the dollars to purchase the hardware for this route and MANY others in the Rushmore area.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 24, 2005

Any ground fall is a problem when considering you are a bolt or more above the ground. I can only give this route one star considering the super high quality longer routes nearby.
By Cameron Luth
Mar 20, 2006

This route is killer. I love the crux, its sweet. The moves feel really cool.Its a great climb
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Mar 11, 2013

With the new Ramp this route is about 5.10ish. Bouldery start is what makes this route. The rest of the route is ehhh... until you get to the top above the small ledge to climbers right and it gets a little thin. Recently saw a Free Solo by a local.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The new base makes the 5.11 crux right off the ground, but it's still an honest 5.11 move followed by easier climbing.