Dyce's Head Project 1 (footbreaker crack)
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the fractured foot of a local climber who deck'd a...
An overhanging crack system that's marked by a line of vivid yellow granite, but surrounded by shale.
The rock is mostly crap and rotten, super untrustworthy and prone to breaking. The yellow stone in the crack is solid but nothing else is good at all.
Protection is easy with small to mid size cams being able to plug the first part of the overhanging crack, then you'll need to run it out to get to a solid layback to get another piece in.
This is also the crux, with serious groundfall potential, on rotten rock. It's rather terrible. One local climber has broken his foot attempting to send this route.
From Dyce's head, head climbers left at mid to low tide. After a short five minute or less walk you'll see a dramatic yellow vertical stripe of rock that defines a tempting crack on it's right side. At the top of the line a hollow dead tree trunk presides over the crack.
mid to small range cams
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