Dyce's Head Project 1 (footbreaker crack)  5.8+ X

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  none yet Season:  year round Submitted By:  steitz on Mar 16, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

the fractured foot of a local climber who deck'd a...

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Most of the cliffs top out into private property. MORE INFO >>> All the cliffs except for one top out into private residences of summer people. Be sure to secure permission from the land owner before rigging a top rope or transiting their land. Most summer people are gone after October and don't return till June. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

An overhanging crack system that's marked by a line of vivid yellow granite, but surrounded by shale.

The rock is mostly crap and rotten, super untrustworthy and prone to breaking. The yellow stone in the crack is solid but nothing else is good at all.

Protection is easy with small to mid size cams being able to plug the first part of the overhanging crack, then you'll need to run it out to get to a solid layback to get another piece in.

This is also the crux, with serious groundfall potential, on rotten rock. It's rather terrible. One local climber has broken his foot attempting to send this route.

Location 

From Dyce's head, head climbers left at mid to low tide. After a short five minute or less walk you'll see a dramatic yellow vertical stripe of rock that defines a tempting crack on it's right side. At the top of the line a hollow dead tree trunk presides over the crack.

Protection 

mid to small range cams