Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Castine
Select Route:
Cat Scratch Fever 
Dyce's Deliverance TR 
Dyce's Head Project 1 (footbreaker crack) T 
Elephant Boulder 
Project 2 (the easy one) T,TR 
Um, Labradoodle Please? T,TR 
Witherly Project (trad) TR 

Dyce's Head Project 1 (footbreaker crack) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: none yet
Season: year round
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: steitz on Mar 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
the fractured foot of a local climber who deck'd a...

Most of the cliffs top out into private property. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An overhanging crack system that's marked by a line of vivid yellow granite, but surrounded by shale.

The rock is mostly crap and rotten, super untrustworthy and prone to breaking. The yellow stone in the crack is solid but nothing else is good at all.

Protection is easy with small to mid size cams being able to plug the first part of the overhanging crack, then you'll need to run it out to get to a solid layback to get another piece in.

This is also the crux, with serious groundfall potential, on rotten rock. It's rather terrible. One local climber has broken his foot attempting to send this route.

Location 

From Dyce's head, head climbers left at mid to low tide. After a short five minute or less walk you'll see a dramatic yellow vertical stripe of rock that defines a tempting crack on it's right side. At the top of the line a hollow dead tree trunk presides over the crack.

Protection 

mid to small range cams


Comments on Dyce's Head Project 1 (footbreaker crack) Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -