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A little slab work up a cliff face that overlooks a washed out gully, on the left side facing into the gully. A few boulder problems exist on the right side.
Work your way up the slap to a vertical crack.
Quick and fun, easy place to kill an afternoon if you're bored and trapped in Castine.
Descend the stairs to the shore at Dyce's head, then cut north along the seaside. After about ten minutes of scrambling and some boulder problems you'll come to a little cut with a very obvious face on the left and debris from a washout gully coming down the center. Bingo. You're there.
You can scramble up the class four rock on either side of the gully to get to the top and build an anchor for a top rope.
You'll need some webbing to build your own anchor for a top rope, slinging around a number of trees at the top of the cliff. Erosion is a problem so pick good trees, and if the people who own the house are in town ask them permission before you go tramping around their back yard.
Charlie working up the layback
From: midcoast, maine
Feb 22, 2010
The rock can be a little crappy. We pulled off a flake the size of a table top while climbing.