DWI 5.10-
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George finishing up the route after we squeezed ju...
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Description Climb the face past a couple of bolts up to the small roof. Nice holds above the roof make for fun climbing. Above the roof move right placing pro in cracks. Clip another bolt and then finish straight up and slightly left through discontinuous cracks and face climbing.
Location This route is the next to last route on the right end of the wall way uphill. Identify it by finding the bolts on the face before the small roof.
Protection 3 or 4 bolts and small to medium gear in between to chains for an anchor. Rappel the route on a single 60m rope.
BETA PHOTO: Ben Nadler rappelling. The starting bolts leading ...
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Leo heads for the crux
DWI (5.10-)
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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Dec 9, 2008
rating: 5.10a PG13
| I felt this route to be a fairly bold lead past the last bolt. This may be because I trended right after that bolt and didn't find any pro (well, a marginal nut in a tiny slot) for 20 ft of face climbing. Next time I'll head more to the left, although I don't recall seeing anything more promising over there. |
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Feb 27, 2011
| I agree with Aaron - the route felt bold after the last bolt. It's tempting to climb right because the climbing looks easier but if you go straight up on thin flakes about 10 feet there is a horizontal slot that takes a yellow or red Camalot C3 (I plugged both in). Not having this beta made for some pretty exciting climbing. Without that gear you'd be facing a huge whipper if you fell near the top. |
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