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Dwarfs Are People Too
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Der Freischutz
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Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Fat Elvis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Free Shot T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | (?) Tony Bubb, David Turner, 10/3/04 |
| Page Views: | 794 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 2, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Description
This route is on the lowest, north-facing 'boulder' at the North East toe of Der Freischutz. These have subnames such as Frankenstein's Castle and The Dwarf. This new (?) route is closest to the Dwarf but not on it. From the alley-way between The Hand and D.F., look South to the massive blocks and towers (boulders?) at the low corner of D.F. The first very large one you see is split by a system of cracks, starting low and right and bumping left, crack to crack, until reaching the top. That is "Dwarves are People Too."
Ascend 8' or so to reach a good, horizontal flake wedged solidly into the wall. Place a pink tricam or a small Aliens/TCU in that, and bump up and left to reach the first vertical crack. A good thin-hands cam protects the crack just before it bottoms out. Move up above the shallow section and get a solid stance and place more gear before bumping left to another crack (1"). Place gear and go up and left to a huge jug, then protect with solid gear again (larger) climb some fist crack and go up to a thinning spot, then up on small slashes and cracks to the juggy finish. The cracks on this route generally are good and some o the short slashes will take small Aliens and have good sinker pockets at the bottom of them.
This route should clean up nicely and both of us really liked the moves. Lamentably, it was over too soon. If it were twice as long, it would get 2*s for sure.
Ascend 8' or so to reach a good, horizontal flake wedged solidly into the wall. Place a pink tricam or a small Aliens/TCU in that, and bump up and left to reach the first vertical crack. A good thin-hands cam protects the crack just before it bottoms out. Move up above the shallow section and get a solid stance and place more gear before bumping left to another crack (1"). Place gear and go up and left to a huge jug, then protect with solid gear again (larger) climb some fist crack and go up to a thinning spot, then up on small slashes and cracks to the juggy finish. The cracks on this route generally are good and some o the short slashes will take small Aliens and have good sinker pockets at the bottom of them.
This route should clean up nicely and both of us really liked the moves. Lamentably, it was over too soon. If it were twice as long, it would get 2*s for sure.
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