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This is the second leftmost (uphill) route on the wall, and heads straight up for the four bolts and then traverses left to the top anchor.
The first bolt is reachy, and the crux is getting yourself to it, so it's probably a good idea to stick clip the first bolt.
Crux is getting yourself over the first roof, and is quite hard if you're under six feet tall, though it can be done using a small sidepull grip below the corner of the roof.
Once you get over the first roof climbing gets simpler, with .11a jug moves.
An alternate start involves doing the start of Grotto Monkey (the climb just left) and carefully traversing yourself right to the large horn and large flake system above the first bolt.
You will probably hate yourself for top roping this and all other routes on the Cave Wall, as it often takes a .10ish move to just pull yourself back onroute if you fall off.
4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
A directional is probably a good idea on the fourth bolt if you've already got a rope through the top anchors and are planning on climbing this route.
|By Hank Sato|
May 24, 2004
I am 175cm tall and chose the traverse start since direct start is too hard for me (with my height). If you traverse, the start 5 moves are the Crux. I would say the rest (from 2nd cilp to the anchor) is 5.9 to 5.10-.The first move to slap the slopey roof is a committed move as you get a swing if you fall. The belayer should be very attentive. For me, the first 5 moves isV3+ or V4 boulder problem. If you are 6 feet tall or so, you can do the direct start to avoid the nasty swing.
From: Novato/SF, CA
Dec 27, 2009
Agreed. It's all in the first couple moves. I'm tall and found it not so bad, but I still stick clipped the first bolt and pre-hung the second. If you can make the initial moves off the ground, the rest is cake. This would be quite hard for someone shorter than 5'9'' or 5'10''.