Dutch Treat  5.8

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 195 feet Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Ron Olsen and Irina Overeem, 9/9/07 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Orphaned on Sep 20, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Dutch Treat is a variation of Showtime. It starts up Showtime, but then cuts right and climbs cracks in the middle of the pinnacle, instead of the arete on the left.

P1: Start by climbing Fine Fir, Before The Deluge, or Crackdown to their common anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.

P2: (Dutch Treat): Start up the gully right of the anchor, place a green Camalot, and move right onto the wall. Climb up to a bulge, clip a bolt, and climb up and right onto an arete. Climb a hand crack to an alcove.

At this point, Showtime works up cracks left of the alcove. Dutch Treat climbs up the alcove to a slot. Either climb up the slot, or traverse right below it, to a stance below a crack system in the middle of the pillar. Climb the cracks until they end at a slab. Climb up the slab, aiming for a prominent chicken head. You can get a small wired nut in cracks on the right side of the slab to protect the moves up to the chicken head. Sling the chicken head, and stand up on it. From here, you can continue up and left to the Showtime anchor, or up and right to the Local Hero anchor. 5.8, 130'.

Descent: Rappel 95' down to the anchor on The B Boys, then rappel 100' down to a gully above the start of Local Hero. Do an easy 20' downclimb to the bottom of the gully. Take a path to the left to get back to The Garden.

Alternate descent: Rappel Showtime in 3 rappels, using the intermediate anchor halfway up Showtime.

Location 

The Garden area, up the cracks in the left-center of the pillar on the north face.

Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Protection 

P2. 1 bolt and gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor at the top.