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Westworld Dome
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Dustdevils 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: EFR,JSt,Ben Morin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,487
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 6, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Climber on the first pitch of Dustdevils

Description 

A challenging 5.10 route with a long first pitch of trad climbing. Stay right at the tongue like overhang and save the #4 camalot to protect the moves. Not sure where the crux is. Pitch 1 has a short but powerful layback section while 3 has a very smooth bit of slab. It will take a few ascents to clean the grains and fuzz off of the first pitch. The second and third are solid and fun. Stay left at the top of pitch 3 unless you want a little more excitement. The route finishes by starting up the last pitch of Warpaint then busts right up the steeper plated face with bolts that forms the right side of the chimney/corner of Warpaint's last pitch. An easier but grungy (it will get better) first pitch can be done. "Chief Tossing Cookies" starts 40 feet left of Dustdevils. A neat crack flake system takes you past a different pine tree. When you reach the ledge walk all the way to the right to the anchors.

Location 

Approach the same as Warpaint but go left when you reach the cliff. The route starts by soloing a little 5.7(15ft.) around the left side of a huge rock that leans against the main dome. This rock is just left of the big cave you rap into when descending from Warpaint. 1) Step off of rock and head up nearest crack to small pine below roof with crack. Follow crack right to a hanging roof. Stuff a #4 Camalot into wide crack on the right side of the hanging roof. Move up and right to crack/corner system. Belay at good ledge. 2) Move right from the anchors to a seam then follow bolts 100ft to next anchors. 3) Climb water stain to ledge. Make a move or two up the crack then clip bolt and climb green face up to anchors at the top of the fourth pitch on Warpaint. Finish on Warpaint or after doing the crux section of the 5th pitch step right on to the steeper bolted headwall that forms the right side of the corner/chimney on the 5th pitch of Warpaint. Rap down Warpaint. Rap Dustdevils if others are on Warpaint

Protection 

The first pitch takes a full rack with doubles on cams to #3 Camalot. The third pitch takes cams from 1 inch to 3 inch. The second pitch is all bolts.


Photos of Dustdevils Slideshow Add Photo
Lower start
Lower start
Greg Kay Sending
Greg Kay Sending
Finishing on a final pitch variation of Warpaint
Finishing on a final pitch variation of Warpaint

Comments on Dustdevils Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 15, 2006

Added a 60 foot 5.11 variation to the second pitch of this route this weekend. It busts left about two thirds of the way up the pitch. It ends on the big ledge. Rap from here with two ropes or belay then traverse right and continue up the third pitch of Dustdevils.
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
May 29, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did this one today with Geir Hundal, and finished on P5 of Warpaint.

P1: 3rd class up to the top of the leaning rock to start this route my ass. It is definitely fifth class; easy, but NOT 3rd! Lie-back it, but don't fall or you will very likely take a swim with the sharks. Once on top of this pillar you’ll definitely want to secure the belayer. A bolt here for that purpose would not be inappropriate, although there is a place for a mid-size tricam down low that will do the trick. The leader must not fall making the Initial moves as there is a VERY sharp edge of rock on this pillar that would likely cut the rope if the leader falls down into the big hole below the belayer. The opening moves are somewhat strenuous offwidth and the rock here is heavily coated with "Cochise Krispies".
This pitch is a grunt in spots, but there are some interesting and varied moves. There are also some interesting natural features that contribute to making this a pretty good pitch. The small pine tree is gorgeous and the “hanging roof” is awesome! I would say that the crux is probably the opening moves or the moves required to move right past the hanging roof. This pitch is radically different than the one that follows. P2: Classic Westworld dome slab with some really interesting pockets, pinches, and occasionally some delicate footwork. Easier than P3 on Warpaint. A very nice pitch on very nice rock.
P3: Another stellar pitch. The moves up to the first bolt is cake, but then it gets much more interesting getting to the second. A few more moves take you up to an interesting mini-ventana, then a large ledge.The green face above the large ledge is just beautiful. Don’t smash the flowers, and don’t break off the holds; be judicious.

Another nice touch is that the belay stations all sport hangers with rings rather than chains...! We didn't see another soul the whole day, so we rapped down on Warpaint. The new chains with rings were much easier to use than the old chain links. Thanks Eric!
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2006

Hey Jerry, point taken on the bolt atop the boulder. We thought about it. As far as the first part being fifth class you are right it is probably 5.6 or 5.7. I will change it in the description. We figured anyone that was willing climb a 5.10 gear lead could solo 10 feet of 5.7 to get to the belay ledge. Also, we climbed the crack closest to the belayer which takes gear low. The part about the edge cutting the rope is a bit dramatic and I think unlikely since rock on that edge is to grainy. It would wear a groove before the rope would cut. I will add a bolt next time we are there or you can if you like. Thanks for the input.
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 9, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The razor edge I'm referring to would only come into play if the belayer is sitting. Check it out next time you're there. It really is extremely sharp. I think if the belayer stands while belaying then the rope might not contact the edge in a lead fall.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 10, 2006

Jerry, If you put the cam in as I did before you move off the rock's top you will be fine. The good news is that if you don't put it in only the leader will die as he won't pull the belayer off the ledge too! But hey, take a rock and round it off. Add a bolt as I said you were welcome to do. The other option is not to climb it. Better yet don't drive to the stronghold as your chances of getting killed go way down when you are out of your car! I think you are safer on Dustdevils than in your car. Climbing is inherently dangerous and the first pitch is adventure climbing not a clip up. The easier way to start this route is to climb the crack/flake system fifty feet to the left but I might have missed something on "Chief Tossing Cookies" that could kill me. I am messing with you bit Jerry.
By Clay Mansfield
Dec 7, 2012

We did an alternate lower, offwidth start to the first pitch, as we had a #6 cam with us for some reason.

On the side of the huge detached leaning boulder closer to the warpaint raps, there is an offwidth corner (see pic). Hard move getting into the offwidth, then some easier maybe 5.8 groveling to the tree then continue on with the rest of the first pitch. Turned out to be pretty fun and adds another 40 feet onto the first pitch.