Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South and East Faces
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker Land T 
Best Crack in Minnesota T 
Bon Homme Variation T 
Cave T 
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 
Direct Southeast T 
Double Indemnity T 
Dusk In Dogtown T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
Extension T 
Free Association T 
Hollywood & Vine T 
interesting problem below, The T 
Let Me Go Wild T 
Roach Addition T,S 
Rocksuckers S 
Soler T 
Soler Eclipse S 
Space Ranger T 
TAD T 
Walt Bailey T 
Windex T 
Window (Free), The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dusk In Dogtown 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Smedley and Jim Black 1980
Page Views: 1,522
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Great route, one of the more obscure approaches ho...
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Location: Take the south face approach to the base of Soler, continue traversing discontinuous ledges, past some rappel anchors, until below the window (series of overhanging roofs). The climb is located just left of the overhangs in a right facing dihedral. The crack has a V-shaped pod approximately 30' off the starting ledge. Note: The traverse from Soler to the window is quite exposed.This route features many fingerlocks and edging on low angle rock, surprisingly thin for 5.10 at the tower. The footholds on the face are fantastic, and even when the crack thins and protection looks nonexistent, things materialize. Rappel after the first pitch, or continue on the steep 5.12 RP fest above.


Protection 

This could easily be lead with a double rack of stoppers. Most will want a few cams up to #1 or #2 Camalot.



Photos of Dusk In Dogtown Slideshow Add Photo
great/only warm-up for adjacent routes
great/only warm-up for adjacent routes
Comments on Dusk In Dogtown Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 10, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a great route with varied climbing, good rests, and a nice crux finish. Definitely deserves at least 3 stars.

By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Apr 30, 2008

If you are very mindful of the ends of the rope and belay from the highest possible stance, you can do the route and lower/rappel off with a single 70m rope.