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Start at the toe of the ridge above the talus & cliffs at the base of Templeton's Crack.
There is no formula for this climb; just follow the ridge by the easiest line. The first several pitches are easy and can be done in many ways. All variations seem to converge halfway up in a 20' crack with a fixed pin in a vertical wall (5.6.) Then continue on easier terrain for several hundred feet. The second crux (also 5.6) is reached on the last pitch. It includes a 100' crack just left of the crest and a short chimney leading to the top. Fixed pins will be found on this pitch.
From there, walk left up a bowl and aim for a notch high in the SW ridge. Your options to continue to the summit or to descend are outlined under the SW Ridge route description.
This route is a good one to serve as an introduction to Teton summits. Just stay on the ridge and trust your intuition. No map is needed.
This route climbs the arete forming the left edge of the deeply cut sub-couloir (Templeton's Crack) that defines the right side of the south face.
The route has several 4th Class/low 5th Class sections and is a longer route than the SW Ridge.
Approach up the Symmetry Couloir by way of the horse trail to Cascade Cyn. Ascend the couloir past Templeton's crack and the nearby cliffs, then traverse across the forest slope to the toe of the ridge.
A standard rack is more than adequate. An ice axe will be useful in the couloir during the early season.
Conrad Willett on Durrance Ridge
|Comments on Durrance Ridge