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This approach leads to Durrance and surrounding cracks. Durrance is the most popular route on the tower, and it is usually crowded during summer months. This area also contains the Wiessner offwidth, Best Crack in Minnesota, Rangers are People Too, Pigeon English, etc. This area is primarily on the south side of the tower, so expect hot sun through most of the day.
Take the trail east from the parking lot and then take a right at the junction a short distance away. Soon after, start heading toward the tower across the talus, taking the path of least resistence. This is also the start for the west face approaches. As you approach the tower, scramble up onto the southeast shoulder, and then depending on the route desired, follow this trail east around the tower. Durrance is located around the tower a ways, and starts near the location of the ramp for the south and east faces.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Durrance Approach
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Durrance Approach:
Durrance 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Sundance 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad
Wiessner 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Pseudo- Wiessner 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad
Manifest Destiny 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 155'
Rangers Are People Too 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Fritz's Fantasy 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
P.O.T.C. 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Direct Southwest 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Lovely Liana 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Black-Jones Direct 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Durrance Approach
Durrance 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach
The Durrance route is listed as one of the 50 classic climbs in North America. A 4-6 pitch route that tops out at the summit. The climb is mainly off-width and hand-crack with a few spots of chimney. You also get the choice of working a small traverse. Don't forget to register at the Visitor's Center before and after the climb. This is a crowded route and a few minutes can mean the difference between success and failure. Either plan to arrive around 5:30 AM or, if your fast and have headlamps, t...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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