|Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
The original route in this area was originally bolted by John Duran, however guides warned that it was an unsafe project with one of the low bolts being in a loose flake. It was later re-bolted by Timy Fairfield to create two routes, that share mid anchors and a bolt in the middle of the route.
After Stick Clipping the first bolt, (Holds definitely have the potential to break) pull a tricky start to get up to and past the first bolt. This section is difficult to read but not too bad with the right beta. From here easier ground trending right leads up to the mid-point anchors. 11a to here.
After clipping the upper of the anchor bolts, make a tricky move to get established above the slight overhang. Another hard sequence leads you to the next bolt. This section is a bit scary as you are making hard moves above your last bolt with the rest ledge below. However my partner fell here several times and never hit the ledge.
Head left once obtaining the nice seam (after passing the shared bolt) through a big move and another bolt. From the bolt traverse almost directly left through small crimps to a hueco that isn't quite as good as it looks. Continue up past another bolt through some more thin crimps to challenging moves to get to the anchor clipping jug.
Also possible to traverse into the upper section from the top of Bob Marley and Master Ganj. This is probably the best way to access this piece of rock.
This route is where the formerly dangerous route with bolts in the loose flake was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the intermediate anchor.
Second route left of Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 11b, or the 6th route from the right side of the crag
Bolts to Chain Anchors, Stick Clip
|Comments on Duran's Pharmacy
|By John Kear|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
The most challenging link up of the Duran routes is to start on the the right hand of the two, Duran Duran 11c here on MP. Climb this to the mid anchor, do the first crux 12bish and all cleaned up now, then continue on to the left hand finish (no real rest) which is probably 12c all by itself.