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Durango

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Durango 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,512'
Location: 37.2675, -107.88 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 722,827
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: eDixon on Apr 28, 2006
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Durango's Premier Crag - The Watch Crystal.

Description 

Durango is a nice, mid-sized town in southwestern Colorado with a variety of local rock climbing. No single crag is a destination in itself, but each of them has some gems, and together make for a nice local climbing scene.

For a good pump on some steep limestone, check out the sport climbing at the Golf Wall. If you think trad is rad, make a trip to East Animas and don't miss the Watch Crystal. It is one of the finest pieces of stone in the area. For bouldering, check out Turtle Lake, Sailing Hawks or any of the many other areas. X-Rock is right at the north end of town and has a nice little selection of routes that are easily top-roped. If you prefer something a little more obscure, try exploring the Hermosa cliffs. Lemon Reservoir should not be missed either. It is one of the newer crags in the area where you can find quality sport, gear, or mixed lines. For a more backcountry/alpine climbing experience, look into the Pine River or Vallecito areas.

Your best bet for information on climbing around the area is to check out a copy of Durango Sandstone (currently out-of-print) and Durango Bouldering at any of the climbing shops in town. Both are well done and written by local climbers/authors.

Pine Needle Mountaineering
Backcountry Experience
Gardenswartz Outdoors

Spring and Fall are the best seasons to rock climb around Durango. The temperatures are typically mild during these times. Summers can get hot, especially on sunny walls, but it can be pleasant to climb in the shade or during the morning. Winter typically brings colder weather and snow, but during periods of dry weather in the sun it can be nice.


Getting There 

Take US Hwy 550 if coming from the north or south, or take CO Hwy 160 if coming from the east or west.

Google Map


Climbing Season


558 Total Routes


['4 Stars',36],['3 Stars',228],['2 Stars',220],['1 Star',67],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',21],['5.7',46],['5.8',53],['5.9',56],['5.10',103],['5.11',84],['5.12',60],['5.13',20],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',9],['V2-3',47],['V4-5',28],['V6-7',18],['V8-9',7],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Durango:
Bird Hole Right   V3 6A     Boulder, 16'   Bouldering : Big East Block
Three Finger Pocket/Petrified Prow   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Sailing Hawks : Petrified Boulder
Sunday Stroll   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   Sailing Hawks : Sunday Stroll Boulder
The Fin (Stand)   V7 7A+     Boulder, 20'   Bouldering : Big East Block
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   East Animas : Jabba Buttress
Nuggernaut   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   Pine River Trad : Tradistan Tower
Byrd's Classic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   East Animas : Byrd's
(Enter) Sandman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   East Animas : Jabba Buttress
Simians to the Sun   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Vertical Alluvium   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lemon Reservoir : West Side
Apes of Wrath   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Lemon Peel   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lemon Reservoir : West Side
Durangutan   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 200'   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Gold Wall   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   X Rock : Gold Wall
Watch Crystal Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Close To The Edge   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cascade Canyon : Pool Area
Holy Grail   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Lemon Reservoir : East Side
Reverse Cowgirl    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Cascade Canyon : Free Tibet Sector
Valhalla   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 70'   East Animas : Apple Cider
La Cantina   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Cascade Canyon : Roof Area
Browse More Classics in Durango

Featured Route For Durango
On The Triangle boulder.

Something Wicked This Way Comes V6 7A  CO : Durango : ... : Triangle Boulder
Start right, traverse left....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Durango Slideshow Add Photo
"Enter Sandman" @ East A.
"Enter Sandman" @ East A.
The Pope's Nose.
The Pope's Nose.
More bouldering on boulders.
More bouldering on boulders.
Bouldering on boulders.
Bouldering on boulders.
Steve, Eggman, Eginore bivying on Insectaphobia, the Pope's Nose, overlooking the Los Pinos River Valley. Photo: Dan Steaevs.
Steve, Eggman, Eginore bivying on Insectaphobia, t...
Local Durango hard-goats.
Local Durango hard-goats.
Gentle Ben on Legacy of the Kid 5.9 R/X. <br />WORD!
BETA PHOTO: Gentle Ben on Legacy of the Kid 5.9 R/X.
WORD!
Khumbu, the Hermosa dog at the trailhead. She would wander along the base of the cliff and stop in shady spots and direct my gaze up to the possibilities. Here she is after a quick descent from another day at the cliffs....
Khumbu, the Hermosa dog at the trailhead. She woul...
1st ascent for those who dare...Wildcat Canyon.
1st ascent for those who dare...Wildcat Canyon.
Tom crossing a tyrolean in Granite lands.
Tom crossing a tyrolean in Granite lands.
Baker's Bridge. <br />Photo by B. Campbell.
Baker's Bridge.
Photo by B. Campbell.
Try SKA Special ESB. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Try SKA Special ESB.
Photo by Blitzo.
Kris French tests out his shiny new 25-bolt anchor on the Arkansas Route aka "The Pinkest Taco".
BETA PHOTO: Kris French tests out his shiny new 25-bolt anchor...
Like overhangs?
Like overhangs?
Laser Crack, V2ish.
Laser Crack, V2ish.
Dihedral of Grinning Hostess w/ aesthetic undercling and jugs of Our Typhoon Rhythm below Kevin.
Dihedral of Grinning Hostess w/ aesthetic undercli...
Steve, Eggman, Eginore, aid climbing on Insectaphobia, the Pope's Nose.  Photo: Dan Steaves.
Steve, Eggman, Eginore, aid climbing on Insectapho...
Try Modus Hoperandi. <br />Photo by Blitzo. <br />
Try Modus Hoperandi.
Photo by Blitzo.
South/southeast face of the Pope's Nose.
South/southeast face of the Pope's Nose.
Try True Blonde. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Try True Blonde.
Photo by Blitzo.
Valalpin's Formations....
Valalpin's Formations....
Nice ice.
Nice ice.
Comments on Durango Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2014
By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Sep 17, 2008

The new edition of Durango Sandstone has been released! It is available at Backcountry Experience in Durango. Look for the Crow on the corner of 12th and Camino del Rio.

By IanA
From: Durango, CO
Aug 7, 2009

Here is a link to a good video representing the Bouldering in Durango.

By IanA
From: Durango, CO
Aug 18, 2009

Durango Bouldering Guide in stores now. Check it out!

By Laura Howey
From: Gilbert, AZ
May 18, 2010

Went to Durango High School and coming back July 30th - August 6th. Is anyone interested in climbing a couple of those days?

Staying at Cascade Lodge north of Purgatory. Have 60m rope, 12 draws, 2 personal anchors, harness, shoes, ATC device. I've been leading and TR 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 and am trying to tackle 5.10's before I come. Been climbing since mid-March and am addicted!!!

Laura
laurahowey@me.com
480-628-1280

By .Miles
From: Durango, co
Jun 16, 2010

I'm on vacation from SF for the summer. I'll be in Durango till October and would like to find some folks to climb with. I've got gear and a descent amount of skill. I know there are a lot of good pitches here and I'd love to play on them. I have a house in La Plata Canyon. I'm at lorenmiles@yahoo.com.

By Peter12345
From: Bay Area, CA
Sep 8, 2010

Hi, I just moved to Durango from California and I am looking for local climbers to climb around Durango. I am also interested in climbing trips to Ouray, Telluride, Indian Creek, anything good in the area.

By Grace Gamble
Nov 14, 2010

Hey, guys! I'm new to the area: live in Dolores work in Cortez for Osprey, and have yet to find climbing partners. If interested, please contact me via email (ggam167@hotmail.com) or phone (704-576-4313). Thanks!

By David Kozak
Jan 29, 2011

Has anyone ventured up to and climbed the two ice flows that have formed on the Falls Creek wall? From 550 they look pretty good.

By Colin Cox
Dec 20, 2011

In regards to the video..."Receptionist Stand - V9"? As a long time Flagstaff local, I know that's preposterous. Removing 2/3 of a V10 does not a V9 make.

By Jason Bernz
From: Durango, Colorado
Nov 20, 2013

I left my Panasonic Lumix black camera at Golf Wall. If you find it, please call me at 914 299 8717. Much appreciated.

By eggman
Jul 29, 2014

I may or may not have left my green backpack with gear in it at the East A. parking lot. Anyone? Anyone?