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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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Duran Duran 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Mar 3, 2008

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Colin Cikoski linking the first half of Bob Marley...

Description 

The original route in this area was originally bolted by John Duran, however guides warned that it was an unsafe project with one of the low bolts being in a loose flake. It was later re-bolted by Timy Fairfield to create two routes, that share mid anchors and a bolt in the middle of the route.

After Stick Clipping the first bolt, (Holds definitely have the potential to break) negotiate the tricky to read start, and a powerful traverse right. After a few more big lockoffs things ease up to a nice rest at the intermediate anchors. 11c to here.

After clipping the upper of the anchor bolts, make a tricky move to get established above the slight overhang. Another hard sequence leads you to the next bolt. This section is a bit scary as you are making hard moves above your last bolt with the rest ledge below. However my partner fell here several times and never hit the ledge.

Head right, (the other new route heads left here) to a nice jug provides a resting opportunity for the stellar crux above, pulling the final bulge on slopers. There is another nice opportunity for big air here, but this time there is nothing to hit. This upper section is easily three stars.

Also possible to traverse into the upper section from the top of Bob Marley and Master Ganj. This is probably the best way to access this piece of rock.


Location 

This route is where the formerly dangerous route with bolts in the loose flake was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the intermediate anchor.

First route left of Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 11b, or the 5th route from the right side of the crag.


Protection 

Bolts to Chain Anchors, Stick Clip



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By Dave Wachter
Nov 8, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Great route. 3 separate bouldery sections, with a no-hands rest between the first and second. Felt a bit harder than 12a, and a lot harder than 12a when in full sun (upper cruxes involve pulling through slopers). The sun hits the route at about noon in mid-fall, so get an early start and call ahead for your Burrito Tyme order.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 22, 2008

Dangerously loose holds getting past the mid-anchor on this one. The sharp right facing jug was shedding pits and pieces today and the other 2 holds above the 3 huecos are quite hollow as well.

  • Belayers beware when your climber is moving past the mid-anchor.

Though strangely enough the rock becomes perfect just above this point.

By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

this is a great climb but I broke a hold at the rest and the hold after 1st anchor are very loose.

By John E. Duran
From: Wuhan, Hubei province, China
Dec 14, 2009

Craig Keaty bolted it. I sent it. A temp. dependent affair on thin, delicate (loose) flakes and so so fun. I repeated it several stellar times not using the MG/... finish, but staying on the line.