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Dunn Route T 
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Dunn Route 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dunn, Green, Snively, Rasmusson, 73 FFA: Achey, Randall, 82
Page Views: 7,716
Submitted By: George Bell on Sep 5, 2002

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Its small and takes some blue collar effort, but i...


This route is less well known than Primrose Dihedrals but is very nice. It is the easiest free route up Moses and consists mostly of 5.9 and 10- with one short but burly crux pitch. The route is on the northwest face of Moses, so it is generally shady. The upper part of the route is very obvious, following a huge right facing corner left of Moses' chin when looking from the parking lot.

P1 (45m): Solve a boulder problem through a small overhang (5.9+) to reach a discontinuous right facing dihedral. Follow this up and left (5.8). This crack widens just before the belay and a #4.5 Camalot is useful here, but is not necessary if you are willing to run it out a bit. Belay from a large ledge below an overhanging right facing corner.

P2 (60m): Climb the corner (10-) and continue up to the base of a chimney. You should probably belay here if you do not have a 60m rope or are experiencing rope drag. Climb partway up the chimney and then exit left, face climbing (5.9 R) and then following a left facing corner all the way up to a gigantic ledge (5.8). There are 2 bolts on the right side of this ledge. If you follow the chimney too far it turns into a 5.10+ squeeze ending atop a flake (slings). From here you can still traverse left to the big ledge.

Move the belay left 50' to the base of the crux corner.

P3 (25m): The crux pitch. Follow the right facing corner past an undercling (5.10+), then climb 20' of burly fist crack (5.11-). There are some desert bolts left of this crack, but you will also need several #3.5-#4 Camalots. Where the crack turns overhanging, crank into a cave not visible from below and belay.

P4 (45m): Burrow back into the cave and then exit straight up (5.8). This is a bizarre but quite easy pitch and you must squeeze through a very tight constriction. If you are a really big guy you may not fit (my chest size is 41" and I had to exhale). The only other option is to follow the main crack up, it is supposedly 5.11 offwidth and looks horrific. Belay from 2 bolts on a large ledge just below the top.

P5 (15m): Climb past 2 bolts (5.8) to the summit.

Descent: 4 Rappels down the North Face (Pale Fire route). The first rappel is only about 60', then do 3 more double rope raps. There are 2 hanging stances which are rather unpleasant, but at least the old decaying bolts have been replaced.


Standard desert rack plus extra #3.5 and #4 Camalots for the crux.

Photos of Dunn Route Slideshow Add Photo
AC coming up to the first belay, Dunn Route.
AC coming up to the first belay, Dunn Route.
3rd Pitch, beware the 10+ rating
3rd Pitch, beware the 10+ rating
Post climb posing with Pale Fire on the left side ...
Post climb posing with Pale Fire on the left side ...
Freaky Cave, top of the 3rd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Freaky Cave, top of the 3rd pitch.
Hope my old topo helps.  Dunn via the crawl is the...
Hope my old topo helps. Dunn via the crawl is the...
Route Overlay for Dunn Route.
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay for Dunn Route.
Pitch 1- climb bouldery, loose rock to obvious cra...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1- climb bouldery, loose rock to obvious cra...
Looking up the cave/spelunking pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the cave/spelunking pitch

Comments on Dunn Route Add Comment
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By Jeff Bevan
Mar 5, 2008

Did this route around 1988 or 89 and didn't have much to go on. When I got into the cave to belay and looked out at the "horrific" overhanging offwidth looming over me I nearly shat myself. Imagine my surprise when I found the cave exit in the back of the cave. Fun route!
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nov 2, 2008

Pete, I still have the postcard you guy's sent me while on that trip just to rub it in good that I was still in school. I also remember the Mets that year in the playoff games I assumed with great glee you guys had missed the whole series with the Philies. No you came home and had gotten KOA out in Taylor Canyon. You heard the Mookie Wilson miracle and had gotten in some great first ascents and great early repeats.... Argh!
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Feb 2, 2014

Trout gets the credit for the 4th pitch crawl. When we did this and got to the belay cave at the end of the 3rd pitch, he pointed out the possibility; a debris chocked crack of light in the back of the chimney. We were both game to eliminate the original 5.11 offwidth, so I sat patiently while Ken began excavations. After about an hour of concerted effort and a great deal of dirt, we were able to barely squeeze through, sans harnesses.
By Hank Caylor
From: Golden, CO
May 3, 2014

You don't need any 4 Camalots on the 3rd pitch!! Take 3 #3s and 2 #3.5s. Felt rather harder than 11- but it was my 1st rockclimb in Moab yesterday. INCREDIBLE summit. All super manky belays with pitons and various metals pounded into holes wrapped in tat.. Classic!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Mar 15, 2015

Detailed pitch beta:

Pitch 1- mostly easier wide crack that doesn't require much actual OW technique. 2 #4 cams are nice, a 5 protects the top OW though it's kinda tipped out. Small gear can be found right before it, so I'd leave it at home. 2 drilled angles for belay

Pitch 2-3. - linking this into one massive pitch is the way to go for the best belay ledges and efficiency but you can stop pretty much anywhere if you need to. Lots of little ledges along the way. An intermediate belay with one drilled angle and a slung chockstone(chossy webbing) is located at the base of the chimney but I found it impractical. The first 20 ft off the 1st belay has gear that is kinda tricky and not as plentiful, but it's fun and the rest of the pitch has great gear. Never felt runout anywhere, though the climbing is very ledgey/ blocky so a fall anywhere wouldn't be clean. Having said that this was the best pitch of the climb. My rack was largely gone when I got to the belay. Sling every piece of gear. Make sure you have a really small cam or nut and a 3 camalot for the end. 2 drilled angles for belay.

Pitch 4- the 5.11. After moving the belay left(1 drilled angle for belay anchor), hand gear protects up to the roof, then #3/4 cams and a single drilled angle(not multiple desert bolts) the rest of the way. No need to walk cams as the pitch is short by IC standards, or compared to the previous one, and the hardest part is jamming past the roof, then small feet appear and a jug rail inside the crack. A Double drilled angle belay is in a super cramped, uncomfortable stance squashed under the horrific OW above, so belay off #2 cams in the cave.

Pitch 5- squirm up through the hole(dont get stuck!) then either continue straight up the chimney(less pleasant) or follow the light horizontally to the top of the ear pitch on primrose and do the short 5.9 bolted flake variation(more fun) to reach the saddle.
Not as classic as Primrose but certainly worthwhile, and a great easier way to enjoy the summit of Moses.
Rap down Pale Fire with one 70m rope. Hanging belays suck but its easy.
Gear: doubles purple to red c3, triples .3-3 camalot, 2 #4 camalots, nuts, as many slings as you can fit over your shoulder, nuts, qds. No 5 camalot.
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