|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 20'|
|FA: ||J Dunn, K Copeland, 1989|
|Page Views: ||2,040|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on May 4, 2003|
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This route was not unpleasant, it just was not worth much. There weren't even any cool moves on it. I did it because I was there, I was waiting, and I was antsy, and I was at the top of this flake... (having just done Pedigree Poodles and having discovered no fixed anchors, or evidence that there ever were any). Like it's neighbors, this is a better boulder than it is a route. It is also harder than the book would imply, & not very secure to start. A fall from the starting slopers would be very near the ground and not of much consequence unless you stumbled backward into traffic.
Again, just solo this up or down in combination with Manicured Lawns (5.9) or Pedigree Poodles(5.7).
All of these routes lie on the arch-shaped flake which lies against the main wall between Nervous In Suburbia and Lucy In the Sky with Potash. Dunn Copeland ascends the left-hand side of the flake to the top, perhaps for 30 feet, although is is not as tall, the climb is made longer by the 20' of horizontal you gain when traveling the hypotenuse of the triangular feature. The moves are not at all hard but the rock is pretty sandy and sloper. You can climb this as a ramp or a hand traverse. The hand traverse is harder, but more secure; you are closer to the ground that way if that is of concern to you. I had no gear here and only went back up to place some later to protect the swing for my second. It will take a TCU or two, but not much.
For an anchor up at the top of this flake, you can place cams back behind the flake up top, but the cables will get tweaked hard if someone takes a fall on them or hangs. I lead this route on a few pieces of gear in a solid arc up Pedigree Poodles and down over to the top of Dunn Copland and then down the sloping ramp of that route. I reached the ground, and handed the lead line to my second, who back lead it in reverse - pulling the gear out by reversing my direction. This turns the 2 routes into a mellow rising and falling traverse of the system covering ~50-60 feet of climbing.
A few small cams to the top and 1.5-3" cams to protect the top if necessary. Maybe large tricams would be better to avoid tweaking cam stems.