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Dune 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jordan Wood - 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Jordan Wood on Sep 13, 2011

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Description 

Slightly longer and more difficult than inception. Follow inception until you get on top of the worm-like sloping feature with a crack running along the bottom. Rather than clipping the sixth bolt on inception, clip a bolt to your right, and traverse this feature to the right for about 15 feet and head up out the roof. Three cruxes of increasing difficulty separated by mediocre rests will take you to the anchors.

As with Inception, it is HIGHLY recommended that you clean the first five or six draws on TR to avoid a dangerous swing. It is easiest if you clean the anchors and all of the draws that you can reach easily while lowering, then toprope it to get the first ones. Alternately, on the last go of the day, you can leap frog the draws on the traverse, cleaning as you go, then get the rest on lower.

Location 

Rightmost of the routes sharing the common start.

Protection 

Eleven bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.


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