This is a relatively easy and fun tower (with a couple harder-looking routes on it...) that is close to the parking lot.
From campsite #3, walk toward the tower and right and down into a draw/dry streambed. You'll reach a point where two dry streambeds meet. Go up the left one (there will be a large bush at the mouth). Follow that for a ways and then cut left to the base of the tower.
This is a cool and casual nailing route that ascends an obvious crack (now that the mud cover has been removed) on the south-face center of Dunce Rock. I'm sure it's been done many times before. Climb over a roof on small cams/angles to gain a right leaning mud-crack. Nail up and right on a big expando-flake. As the crack fizzles out, beak and hook right to gain the east ridge. Enjoy a cold PBR on the "comodious" ledge. Pitch two traverses out right on the N. Face to gain the drilled-angle ladde...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
I got the bolt ladder free at 5.10+? or something today. Hard to rate. Really quality climbing! Don't know if that's the FFA of the tower? Either way, I think it's a fun route to check out especially those looking to get on something free rather then just Lizard Rock and the Cobra. Though I don't think you would want to take whips on those pins but they would probably hold. It's a sport climb now!! :)