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 ADVANCED
Duncan's Ridge

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bird Shit Avenue T,TR 
Broken Crack T,TR 
Cave Route T,TR 
Conglomerate Face TR 
Corner Climb T,TR 
Crackmard T 
Dihedral Route T,TR 
Face Route T,TR 
Liberty's Last Stand TR 
Lichen Roof T,TR 
Northern Unnamed T,TR 
Purdy Dirty TR 
Roof Route T,TR 
South "Moai" Unnamed Routes T 
South Corner T,TR 
South OW T 
Unnamed Corner T,TR 
Unnamed Overhang TR 
Unnamed Top Rope Section T,TR 
Wishbone Crack T,TR 

Duncan's Ridge 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.53352, -105.14488 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,069
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ryan-Nelson on Nov 30, 1999
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of "central" section of Duncan's Ridge.

Description 

This is a very sunny wall with easy access. It has mostly trad routes, and all can be toperoped. In the summer, the walls can get pretty hot from the sun.


Getting There 

Map:
binged.it/17mXOcq

Once at the parking lot (same lot for Piano Keys Bouldering Area) hike west up the hogback for 5 minutes and your at the ridge.
You can descend via the obvious 4th class gully to the north of the main climbing area.


Fixed Hardware 

Over the years, Duncan's Ridge has been the source of bolting conflicts. At this time, the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition (NC3) strongly discourages the placement of additional bolts, per community consensus. Any new bolts will be removed promptly and the holes will be patched. For questions regarding route development or hardware replacement, please contact the NC3 at nococlimbers@gmail.com.


Climbing Season


20 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Duncan's Ridge:
Wishbone Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Unnamed Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
South Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Crackmard   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Purdy Dirty   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch   
Unnamed Overhang   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Dihedral Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Roof Route   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   
Browse More Classics in Duncan's Ridge

Featured Route For Duncan's Ridge
Me on the first little overhang.

Dihedral Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Fort Collins : ... : Duncan's Ridge
This route climbs the right dihedral next to the roof route. If you top rope it watch out for the swing if you slip off the first little overhang. It passes one little overhang, then a second and meanders over to the right up big holds to the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Duncan's Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
A long view of Duncan's Ridge shows an attractive rock band with the most popular climbs/problems (The Nose, Face Route, Dihedral Corner, etc.) at or near the yellow arrow.  Many more, less frequented lines exist on the right/downward leg of the formation
BETA PHOTO: A long view of Duncan's Ridge shows an attractive ...
Trad climbing the route south of overhang with the TR bolts...believe it's a 5.7?
Trad climbing the route south of overhang with the...
Toprope somewhere on middle Duncan's Ridge.
Toprope somewhere on middle Duncan's Ridge.
Southern routes.
BETA PHOTO: Southern routes.
Duncan's Ridge... with Horsetooth in the background. This is an amazing place!
Duncan's Ridge... with Horsetooth in the backgroun...
Just south of the descent gulley
BETA PHOTO: Just south of the descent gulley
Comments on Duncan's Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 13, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 4, 2002

There aren't any anchors (bolt) anywhere anymore! Make sure you can set up your own gear or remote sling belay.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Apr 1, 2002

I tried to get to Duncan's Ridge this morning, but the road was closed for dam construction. I'm not sure if one can park and walk in from the road closure sign. Either way, the access to the Horsetooth Res. bouldering areas has been altered for the moment...Shane

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2002

I talked to some of the construction guys, and they just 'offiicially' opened a path from the piano rock car park just north of the south damn. Gain the path just west of the construction gate, but to get there you'll have to go past the hughes stadium access road.

m.trinidad

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 5, 2003

The road is now open!

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2004

If you are hoping to use trees for anchors, they are a very long ways back. Your best option is to probably to bring a static climbing rope if you own one. If not you will have to do some creative anchor building with pro.

By Shala
Aug 12, 2008

Just an FYI for everyone. I was up at the bolts climbing with some friends and my dog got bit by a rattlesnake. We did not hear or see the snake. Keep your dog on a leash if you are up there.

By jbarnum
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2009

Up there yesterday. Someone has been busy. New bolts across the top, so new the drill dust was still there. Two new sets, and a replacement/refurbish of the existing set. It was nice to get more climbing in and move from bolted anchor to bolted anchor without having to fiddle with gear. I understand the debate between pro and fixed gear, but I personally do not have an opinion on bolts in this particular area. Perhaps with the addition of bolts the area will see more traffic, and some people don't like that. These bolts are no more unsightly than the chalk visible at Piano and the Rotary. With the history here, however, they are at risk of being chopped.

By jeff walz
From: CO
Nov 6, 2009

What'd they bolt? The roof and surrounding climbs already bear scars from former anchors.
The (previous) lack of bolts speaks for itself, especially considering how long people have climbed here. Most climbs can be toproped with a rudimentary rack.

By jbarnum
From: Denver, CO
Nov 7, 2009

Jeff,

They did not bolt the roof, but a set to climber's right, and another set to the left, in addition to the bolts that were already there. I am surprised the roof was not bolted, since that also seems to be the more timely anchor to build. I agree, the more traffic an area sees, the more likely we are to have people that will abuse it. Two recent fire rings were also evident. An area like this, while not destination, should have its tradition and ethics be respected. I am not one to chop, but I also will not stop others if they feel the need. But chopping just leads to more scars, and more bolts.

By David Pneuman
From: Montrose, CO
Jan 17, 2010

As of yesterday, all the new bolts are missing hangers and nuts. Not sure if they are removed because the placements were unsafe or just booty for children....

By Tanner Mitchell
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 28, 2010

A question for the Admins...I was climbing some of the more obscure routes at Duncan's today, and I wondered if it's possible to make route entries for them, with hopes that other users will add info, as I know no definite names/ratings for them. I'm surprised that the routes I was on weren't entered already, as I found them to be great fun. Anyway, if you could let me know the procedure for something like this, I'd be most greatful.

By jbarnum
From: Denver, CO
Apr 11, 2010

Better come to a consensus on these bolts and future bolts. Recently up there, and the hangers are gone, with the bolts still present. Soon, with these antics, the bolt threads will be damaged, leaving an unusable bolt, or a spinning hanger. Also not having a hanger leaves the rock surrounding the bolt more prone to erosion in this softer rock. Why not form a group to decide where bolts are appropriate, and where not. Where can anchors safely be made, and where a bolt could be justified. An accident with a novice with only draw unwanted attention. This is no where near Eldo, but people will climb here long after you and I are gone.

By John R. Williams
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 28, 2010

Question: would anybody happen to know the name and or rating of the route(s) under the 2 bolts about 20 feet right (south) of the roof route?

Thanks

By Ammon
Aug 26, 2011

Went to DR about 3 weeks ago and my partner found a GriGri lying on top of the cliff, at the end of the approach trail. Give Mark a call at 970 371 9371 with description of the sticker that's on it and he'll get it back to you.

By Michael Kauzmann
Jul 13, 2014

Hey all, I was climbing with friends on Friday afternoon and was an idiot. I pulled my rope at the end of the day, meaning to grab my anchor on the way out but forgot. If anyone has this hefty anchor of two non-lockers, two lockers, and a grey nylon double and wants to be a kind soul, I would love an email: mjkauzmann@gmail.com. Free compliments and a beer will be in store!