This is an area near I-70 and Dumont that has a few crags. There are at least 4 climbable crags in the vicinty and probably more. This entry will help facilitate adding additional crags, so it winds up being sort of an organizational entry.
There is granite and gneiss in this area. Some of the land is private, so be respectful of these issues.
Mill Creek follows the road and is a pleasant after climbing spot to cool down.
Parking is somewhat limited. Spots along the Frontage Road are posted as "no parking", so pay attention here. Parking along Mill Creek Road is also limited.
From the east, drive up I-70 west of Idaho Springs to exit 235. For the crags north of I-70, the National Forest boundary is ~2.2 miles north up Mill Creek Road.
How can a monkey jump over the ocean? When you are the Son of the Wind, you can just do it! Run up the slab clipping five bolts. I placed two small camming units on the slab. The slab has a 5.9 opening move passing the first bolt. Clip 8 more bolts above the slab. Hard moves run through the corner system and over the roof. Overall, the route has cool moves, hard climbing, and solid rock. Things stay tricky after the roof and run into some 5.11 moves.Beta note: This route is all about rope manag...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I was up working on the roof routes at MCD today. A woman from the cabin downstream approached with her two guard dogs and asked if I was climbing on the dome above. I responded that "yes ma'am. I was just getting ready to head up". Her response caught me off guard: "Oh, that's wonderful", she said. "Have you seen the goats, they come down from Mt. Evans." I thought I had stepped through a time warp.
Re: DoNstamos question; "I have ambitions to put up that big horizontal roof crack and the first crack pitch leading up to it. I just wanted to see if that's not something you are sussing out, I may give her. I think it can go clean. Let me know if you got your eyes on that, I'll cool my jets."
I have twice checked out the crack/roof system, and I rapped over it once. I am confident that it will go free as would several other lines through the roof. The main crack on the left would be stellar. Furthermore, there are many other potentially fine routes to be done on this crag. While the big tree that fell over the creek provides easy access, what I found in checking it out was discouraging. The approach is a major thrash through a lot of nasty briar, tumbled trees, and tangled vegetation. The crag itself and the face below the roof would require a huge amount of cleaning. I have yet to discover an easy way to get things set up just to get started. One could carve out a path from the fallen tree to the crag, which would be a good start, but the overall work involved in getting the roof crack established would be daunting. So at this point, I have no further plans to touch it.
Richard - Thank you for the feedback. You're right about it being daunting. We'll see if I still have the drive to go through with it in about a month. I'd love to at least get an anchor station set up below the roof where my belayer could belay comfortably and clear a trail/ clean the (potential) first pitch. Perhaps I'll rap it myself. Did a single 70m work? Also, keep slaying the rock dragon, you're routes are great and the work/ money you put in is greatly appreciated by myself and my friends who live up Mill Creek. Thanks again. If ever you need help and I'm in the area, don't hesitate to ask.