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Dumb Waiter 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,380
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001
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Peter Dillon at the crux bulge.


This route is located on the black face to the left of the Bulge Wall. Moving over the bulge near the end of the climb is the crux. I think this climb actually might deserve a little higher rating because of the crux moves.


[5] bolts to anchor.

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By Edward Jenner
Nov 19, 2001

I hate 9+ ratings, but this is certainly no sandbag.

By Sean O'Dell
Apr 9, 2002

The crux is definitely at the bulge and is definitely a little funky. However, I'd be tempted to agree with the 9+ rating only because of some really positive, but really hard to find pockets on the bulge. When you get to the bulge, traverse to the leftmost corner (the edge of the chimney by the B.O.S.S. Method) and feel around. There ARE some really nice 4-finger pockets at the crux if you take the time to find them.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 19, 2004

Follow the beta given by those who've posted here and she's a 5.9, for sure. Well protected. If you're going to toprope be sure to bring long slings - longer than you're thinking - as the bulge will chew your rope.

Can anyone tell me the name of the route a yard or so right of Dumb Waiter? It takes the outside (sunny) arete of the same rock, just where the trail bends by a gnarled tree. A few finger locks about mid-route in a short, bulging crack get you to a prominent, black, small (1 ft.) roof; anchors are just above this? What is that route?

By James Burns
Sep 7, 2004

Based on the guide book, it seems like Dumb Waiter is the climb Sirius is asking about, not what is in the description here. The route starts about 10 feet right of BOSS Method and goes up over 2 small overhangs via 7 or 8 bolts.

By Larry Shaw
Sep 9, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Not sure of the route name to the right but I believe it's a .10b. the waiter route was fun and has great pockets just where you want moves over the bulge.

By Conn C. Ernediciticen
Aug 21, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Well the first thing to keep in mind about this route is that the holds are there. Follow the beta, you'll find them.....Back to "Dumb Waiter". The holds are deffo there. Just take a deep breath and pull up over the bulge and you will find them. Big enough to stuff a volleyball into. Great route ...

By Genghis
Jun 3, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This is a really fun climb. There's always a perfect hold right where you need it which is why I think the rating is fitting. If you get stuck and feel like you're missing a hold... you probably are, and PS the one to the right is Smart Server... watch out for the trees and cacti on the lower off.

By dancesatmoonrise
Oct 7, 2012

As to which route, the entry indicates the route is "located on the black face to the left of the Bulge Wall." Is anyone else confused about this? I believe he means to the RIGHT of the bulge wall.

I have some update notes in the original 1990 Van Horn guidebook that indicates Dumb Waiter is 10 feet right of the Bulge Wall, 4 bolts. That's pretty much what we've always considered to be the route.

By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 9, 2013

There are actually 5 bolts to this climb.

The fifth bolt is at the bulge, probably hidden by the climber in the photo associated with the route.

The anchors are older cold shuts and are partially worn through.

Easier climbing to the third bolt, then consistently harder.