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Da Butts
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Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pitch 1 - Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel & Sharon Murra, November 1987. Pitch 2 - Claude Traufield & Peter Hubbel, December 1987
Page Views: 1,081
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 6, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Dum De Dum Dum climbs the two parallel seams above...

Description 

A new bolt on the slab just to the right of "Hoo Dee Doo" marks the start. 2 bolt belay at 90 feet. Pitch 2 starts with 2 bolts into a corner and then over a small roof to the crack above. Follow the crack until it runs out and 4th class to bolts at the top.


Protection 

Micro cams to #1 and 1 #2. 2 or 3 quickdraws.



Photos of Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb Slideshow Add Photo
The second pitch.  After the two bolts the line goes up the twin cracks.  Quality!
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch. After the two bolts the line go...
Comments on Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb Add Comment
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By Bill Farrand
Sep 4, 2006

This is a really nice climb. I'd say that the crux move near the first bolt is more like 5.10c. The best part of the climb is moving through the roof and steep crack on the second pitch. That part is probably solid 5.9.

By Deaun Schovajsa
Oct 17, 2008

FA: Pitch 1 - Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel and Sharon Murra, November 1987.
Pitch 2 - Claude Traufield and Peter Hubbel, December 1987.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The second pitch is great. The first pitch is just so, so with two or three hard 5.10 moves.

By slim
Administrator
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

I thought I remember this route as breaking to the right once you get over the twin crack bulge, and heading into sort of an RP thin crack. Thin climbing and a little spooky. Is this the same route?

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Slim, I think you are thinking of a different route. After the bulge the right of the twin cracks continues as a finger/hand crack to the anchors. It would not make sense to break to the right.

By Croy T
From: Longmont, Co
Oct 12, 2012

I originally named the climb Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb. To this day I vividly remember jumping on this. I ended up running the upper half out as I couldn't get any pro in and kept thinking "ok, 1 more move and try again". After finishing the climb with no fall, I broke down and cried with relief when we got back to Pete's van, all I could think was "Dumb move Traufield, dumb, dumb, dumb". I'm glad bolts were added.

Pete Hubbel climbing Da Butts.
Pete Hubbel climbing Da Butts.