Dum Dee Dum Dum 

There are two ways to do this route free. The original way, done by Bob Mitchell, went up to the base of the crack, did an undercling out right & then traversed back left to enter the crack above the first flared section of crack.

The other way is to climb the crack direct. This was first done by Henry Barber on his visit to Looking Glass.. Probably the way most folks do it these days.

Jamming the flared section proved to be really difficult for me. Look forward to doing the whole climb next time I am there. The hand crack after the flare probably isn't much harder than 5.8.

The first pitch was interesting, but the remainder of the route was not so good. I looked for quite awhile, but couldn't find any moves approaching 5.9 on the third pitch...just a bunch of low angle, very mossy slab climbing.

Very fun climbing. Crux move was not to difficult, but definitely should be approached as a lay back instead of trying to jam. I found the move getting into the actual hand crack above the crux to be more difficult.

Fun Route and very safe (not PG-13)

Burly crux on this one. I thought the hardest part was getting into the finishing crack. Potentially a long fall from here if you don't place any gear above the bolt. You could get a hand sized piece in the only good jam between the two cracks... not worth it. So make sure you're belayer is awake. Not dangerous, just heads up.

Doing the traverse bypasses the first hard move, but not really the second. You'll have to do a solid 5.10 section either way unless your 6'4''.

This route is an unheralded classic, no matter how many pitches you do. Mike Anderson was clearly off route on the third pitch. Two stars Mike? Really? After the bolt on P1 you can sink a bomber #1 or 2 and still have room for your hands. This might be the best splitter hand crack in NC.

Still the biggest sandbag on LG at 10c or just extremely condition/height dependent. I would say the best hand crack on that cliff is P2 of the Odyssey and best in the state would have to go to something at GT. Tried it again, probably sub-optimal conditions, but getting into the easy crack to the anchor was difficult. If you like your ankles, you will place #1 after the bolt before getting into the easy crack as it doesn't interfere with the highest jam. No fancy belaying will keep you off the slab if you fall that high above the bolt.