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Dugald's Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)
Season: spring to fall
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: Tony B on May 11, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Dugie's Route
RIP old friend.
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The difficulty of this climb will vary greatly upon the exact line taken and what is "on" or "off." If you climb just the crack though the roof (crux) it is solid 5.10. Allowing face holds and deviation from the most direct line, it may be 5.10a.
Climb up the jumble of boulders and set pro before getting in the start of the crux, a flaring handjam. Set more pro (in the jam) and them beat the roof one of a few ways. If you use ONLY the crack it may be low 5.11, with a few sensible footholds, it's 5.10. Allowing for deviations from the crack, it might go in as easy as 5.10a. Continue up easier rock on good pro to the top of the cliff.


Location 

This is the 4th route encountered after the descent and is just right of '3 Rurps.' It is a hand-jam below an overhang, transitioning to a short and shallow right-facing corner.


Protection 

A set of stoppers + cams to 3". A 2.5" cam and a small nut are crux pro.
There is a good, solid tree above this to sling for a belay.



Photos of Dugald's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Pictured is the start of Dugald's Route, Dugald's Route Right, and Normally Three RURPs (left to right)
BETA PHOTO: Pictured is the start of Dugald's Route, Dugald's ...
Comments on Dugald's Route Add Comment
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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
May 15, 2007

You can also make this into a pretty good 5.8ish route by skipping the first roof. Climb past it just to the right, then traverse into the crack above the first roof. Pull the second roof and continue up. Plenty of fun climbing to be had above.

By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007

First ascent: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)

By Paul Davidson
Oct 28, 2008

FWIW - Dugald was not only a very talented boatman, but an excellent climber. Overall fun guy and this route is a great climb. It's not quite a typical Overlook crack. Bit more of a thin face climb in some ways. Was a good stiff climb for the time it was put up. He climbed the crack straight on, up and over the roof in pure style. That was the flavor of the day in Flag. Which is not to say the various variations aren't also well worthwhile. Just depends on what you want on that day and that lead.

Do this climb straight on, then go find some of Dugie's photos (National Geo, Outside, etc...) and then tip one back in honor of his many talents.

By Micah Kurtz
Feb 24, 2014

The first roof/bulge is definitely the crux, really thin finger crack for me. The second roof is not nearly as hard.