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Chimney Spire
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Duet T 
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Duet 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Amos Clifford, 1973
Season: Aug, Sep, Oct
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Nov 8, 2012

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At the base of Duet on a foggy day
Perigrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start from the large dihedral on the SW face. First pitch climbs a crack into the dihedral, up the corner and onto a ledge with slung blocks (5.8++). Tunnel behind the big pillar (move the belay) and pitch two ascends a chimney onto a knobby face to a bolted anchor (5.6). The last pitch is only a few feet to reach the summit.

Descend by rapping from the top of the second pitch directly to the ledge at the top of the first pitch. Another rap off of the big mess of slings will reach the ground. 60m rope works.


Location 

The dihedral near the giant boulder on the SW side of the spire


Protection 

I felt fine with singles up to 4" and a set of nuts.



Comments on Duet Add Comment
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By Amos Clifford
Dec 20, 2012

The first known ascent was by Amos Clifford in 1973 or 74. The route has had many ascents by many parties since then, well before the 1990 FA date given.

By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Dec 21, 2012

Oops, you're right. I accidentally put the FA info for Tibet Duet from the old SEKI guidebook. Updated. Great route by the way, and thanks for all the work you've done documenting and putting up climbs around here!