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Duet Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Hartrich, Schwarm 1974
Page Views: 3,937
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2008
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Starting up Duet Direct (5.10+) at Cannon.


Duet Direct is a stout and neglected two-pitch route near the popular one pitch climbs of Slow and Easy and Sticky Fingers. The first pitch is an excellent warm up for the business on the second pitch. Here, expect Devil's Tower-style stemming and Yosemite-quality granite. I'm surprised that this excellent and well-protected route doesn't get more traffic.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 100ft): Climb up thin but seemingly sold flake systems, using a combination of techniques. This pitch is fun and leads to a comfortable stance and a belay/rap station.

Pitch 2 (5.10+ 120ft): Climb the steep corner by stemming, jamming, and laybacking--sometimes using all three techniques at once. This pitch is very well protected and given the steep angle and the solid, clean rock, it's easy to forget you're at Cannon. Finish the route at a two bolt anchor on a perfect ledge.

Descent: Rap the route.


Duet Direct climbs up the left side of Duet Buttress, which is located left of the central wall and right of the Black Dike area. It is identified by the soaring, steep, and clean dihedral on the second pitch.


Cannon rack plus doubles in the mid-sizes (from yellow Alien through yellow Camalot), 60M rope, helmet, calves of steel.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 16, 2012
By Andrei
Jan 17, 2009

If you like the last pitch of Recompense at Cathedral, you will like this one too. It's longer and harder and more sustained but very well protected.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 17, 2010

.... and not at all the same

By burlap submariner
Mar 5, 2010

nope john is correct in all venues. Not even comparable the only thing they have in common is that their both dihedrals, Duet is thinner and has no rest ledges. Full value NH 10+.

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 7, 2010

And Hartrich called it 5.9. This route is SOOOO good!

By redpoint robby
From: Dover, NH
May 16, 2010

If you want to work this thing the anchor can be reached via Duet, a more moderate option.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 22, 2010

Jay, I rapped duet today with one 70m and we had to down climb to get to the second rappel. Did we miss the anchor or has it moved? it was 4 fixed nuts and hexes. At any rate, it was not possible to rappel this route in two raps with a 70m in the state that the anchors are in now.

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
May 23, 2010

Thanks for the correction Erik. I made the change. What did you guys think of the route?

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 23, 2010

We were rapping down it after doing raven crack. But it is on the docket for tomorrow so we shall see...

By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 2, 2011

9+ Bradley ?? THAT'S a good one. Let's get Diedre back to 5.8 now.

By Pete Wilk
Oct 24, 2011

It's possible to rap Duet Direct with a 70m, though the rap down to P1 belay you should make sure you have an extra double length sling handy to put yourself into the anchor since it is very close. Also the last person on rappel should have a single knot in the rope so it doesn't spring up and out of reach after they are off. Or use two ropes if you prefer.

By burlap submariner
Nov 4, 2011

9+? have you not climbed this bradley? that's some asinine shit.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 4, 2011

I MIGHT give it 9+ every move... and the crux.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This would get climbed as often as Book of Solemnity and Nutcracker if it were a few minutes closer to the parking lot. Toproping this climb is ridiculous, it is as "G" as 5.10 can be. Don't miss the bonus on rappel and go back up the regular Duet, that's a pitch worth doing.