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Duet Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Hartrich, Schwarm 1974
Page Views: 4,635
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Starting up Duet Direct (5.10+) at Cannon.

Description 

Duet Direct is a stout and neglected two-pitch route near the popular one pitch climbs of Slow and Easy and Sticky Fingers. The first pitch is an excellent warm up for the business on the second pitch. Here, expect Devil's Tower-style stemming and Yosemite-quality granite. I'm surprised that this excellent and well-protected route doesn't get more traffic.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 100ft): Climb up thin but seemingly sold flake systems, using a combination of techniques. This pitch is fun and leads to a comfortable stance and a belay/rap station.

Pitch 2 (5.10+ 120ft): Climb the steep corner by stemming, jamming, and laybacking--sometimes using all three techniques at once. This pitch is very well protected and given the steep angle and the solid, clean rock, it's easy to forget you're at Cannon. Finish the route at a two bolt anchor on a perfect ledge.

Descent: Rap the route.

Location 

Duet Direct climbs up the left side of Duet Buttress, which is located left of the central wall and right of the Black Dike area. It is identified by the soaring, steep, and clean dihedral on the second pitch.

Protection 

Cannon rack plus doubles in the mid-sizes (from yellow Alien through yellow Camalot), 60M rope, helmet, calves of steel.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 31, 2014
By Andrei
Jan 17, 2009

If you like the last pitch of Recompense at Cathedral, you will like this one too. It's longer and harder and more sustained but very well protected.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 17, 2010

.... and not at all the same
By burlap submariner
Mar 5, 2010

nope john is correct in all venues. Not even comparable the only thing they have in common is that they're both dihedrals, Duet is thinner and has no rest ledges. Full value NH 10+.
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 7, 2010

And Hartrich called it 5.9. This route is SOOOO good!
By redpoint robby
From: Dover, NH
May 16, 2010

If you want to work this thing the anchor can be reached via Duet, a more moderate option.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 22, 2010

Jay, I rapped duet today with one 70m and we had to down climb to get to the second rappel. Did we miss the anchor or has it moved? it was 4 fixed nuts and hexes. At any rate, it was not possible to rappel this route in two raps with a 70m in the state that the anchors are in now.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 23, 2010

Thanks for the correction Erik. I made the change. What did you guys think of the route?
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 23, 2010

We were rapping down it after doing raven crack. But it is on the docket for tomorrow so we shall see...
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 2, 2011

9+ Bradley ?? THAT'S a good one. Let's get Diedre back to 5.8 now.
By Pete Wilk
Oct 24, 2011

It's possible to rap Duet Direct with a 70m, though the rap down to P1 belay you should make sure you have an extra double length sling handy to put yourself into the anchor since it is very close. Also the last person on rappel should have a single knot in the rope so it doesn't spring up and out of reach after they are off. Or use two ropes if you prefer.
By burlap submariner
Nov 4, 2011

9+? have you not climbed this bradley? that's some asinine shit.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 4, 2011

I MIGHT give it 9+ every move... and the crux.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This would get climbed as often as Book of Solemnity and Nutcracker if it were a few minutes closer to the parking lot. Toproping this climb is ridiculous, it is as "G" as 5.10 can be. Don't miss the bonus on rappel and go back up the regular Duet, that's a pitch worth doing.
By RyderS
From: Boston, MA
Jul 30, 2014

Steep and glorious. If you are looking to test your trad pump endurance without getting into dicey gear situations, this route is for you. Great gear the whole way. Have faith passing the pod. Decent jams are not far off!

No single move felt like .10+. Instead the crux is very long with a bunch of stacked .10 moves in a row. Shake out and keep going!

For those interested:

- Gear: If this is at your limit and you want to sew it up (like I did), climb the pitch with triples of #.75 and #1 cams. Doubles of the #.2 X4 are nice for when things get thin and you want gear. Keeping doubles of #.3, #.4, and #.5 is nice, even if superfluous (good psych pro, I guess). 1 #2 and 1 #3 should do the trick post crux and on up to the anchors. Take any extra finger-sized pieces that help keep your head game in check about leading this long pitch... or just be a rope gun...

- Rappel: 2 60m ropes will JUST make it down to the ground. Another team that rapped from Raven Crack (shared rap anchor at the top of the Duet Buttress) reached the easy ledges a few feet off the ground (easy, short down-scramble); 2 70m ropes will be plenty (what we did) . Otherwise, plan on rapping to the first belay station (fixed nuts and a hex), but even then, one 70m rope is cutting it close...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 31, 2014

I might be so bold as to call the Duet Direct crux pitch the best 5.10 pitch in New Hampshire.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 31, 2014

maybe..for sure top 5