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Perched above Dude's Fishing Hole, this seemingly small crag yields some pretty big routes. With a largely Southwest aspect, the crag can be wonderful in the fall as long as the wind isn't howling. Because Dude's sits at a fairly high altitude, the crag is great in the summer as well. An early start yields enough sustained shade to get in a fair bit of climbing on the West and South faces. When the South face is blazing in the sun, the Throne Room on the North face offers cool respite. With a few exceptions, most notably a historic 5.11 crack climb, the routes are bolt protected sport climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.
Once in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, head to the Aspen Meadow Campground, drive through, and continue down to the parking for Dude's Fishing Hole. The crag can be seen from the parking lot and accessed with a contouring hike through the forest on an at times faint climbers' trail or by hiking up from the pond.
Eds. Please note that after discussion with GGCSP, Dude's Throne is within Golden Gate Canyon State Park and thus is subject to its regulations. Hence, any new fixed hardware requires Park approval. Thank you.
25 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dude's Throne:
Mighty Aphrodite 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Dude's Jam Crack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Short Dude 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Dude's Dihedral 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Dude's Way 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Uplift Mofo Party Plan 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Howdy Doody Time 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Green Chile 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Missing Link 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Golden Gate 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Impeachment Day Parade 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Sky Chi 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Raven's Brew 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Open Space Cowboy 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Red Hot Chili Peppers 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Major Dude 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch
Double Dominatrix 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Buster Brown 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Dude's Throne
Open Space Cowboy 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a CO : Golden : ... : Dude's Throne
Burly, thuggish 5.11 leads to the first crux. After pulling the tricky .12a undercling traverse, pull up onto a slab to rest up for the second .12a crux; thin, powerful moves lead to big holds to pull through the roof to the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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