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 ADVANCED
The Old Settler
Select Route:
Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Totally Spurious 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

Duck a L'Orange 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1100', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D. Brayshaw, S. Sheffield, M. Spagnut, Sept. 1998
Season: summer and fall
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Approaching the south face of the central summit. ...

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Description 

Begin across the west couloir from the start of the west buttress of the south peak and climb steep cracks in solid, polished orange rock to a ledge (same as start of Black September). Move left and climb a 5.9 crack breaking through a black-streaked overhang. Climb a long 5.7 pitch to an orange ledge surrounded by darker rock. Move the belay 60m left along this ledge (3rd class). Climb an excellent 60m 5.6 pitch on a featured slab to a belay below steeper rock. Climb up the centre of a steep face below an arching roof feature (loose rock cleaned on FA) and break through it moving left to the arete (5.10-). Climb a long 5.9 pitch up the arete on steep featured rock, small nuts are very useful. Climb a 5.7 pitch above, then some scrambling, followed by a 5.6 pitch up a wide crack that leads to the summit.


Location 

This route climbs the southwest face of the central summit. The central summit has three southwest-facing ribs: Contact Zone climbs the righthand one, Black September the central one, and Duck a L'Orange the lefthand one.

Descend the standard scrambling ramp route down the west face from the north-central col.


Protection 

Full rack, emphasis on hand-size cams and wired nuts. Small (RP size) wired nuts are useful on some pitches. A #4 camalot or similar sized piece is also nice for some pitches. Double ropes are also useful due to the wandering nature of some pitches.



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