Duck a L'Orange  5.10-

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  D. Brayshaw, S. Sheffield, M. Spagnut, Sept. 1998 Season:  summer and fall Submitted By:  Dru on Mar 17, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Approaching the south face of the central summit. ...

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Description 

Begin across the west couloir from the start of the west buttress of the south peak and climb steep cracks in solid, polished orange rock to a ledge (same as start of Black September). Move left and climb a 5.9 crack breaking through a black-streaked overhang. Climb a long 5.7 pitch to an orange ledge surrounded by darker rock. Move the belay 60m left along this ledge (3rd class). Climb an excellent 60m 5.6 pitch on a featured slab to a belay below steeper rock. Climb up the centre of a steep face below an arching roof feature (loose rock cleaned on FA) and break through it moving left to the arete (5.10-). Climb a long 5.9 pitch up the arete on steep featured rock, small nuts are very useful. Climb a 5.7 pitch above, then some scrambling, followed by a 5.6 pitch up a wide crack that leads to the summit.

Location 

This route climbs the southwest face of the central summit. The central summit has three southwest-facing ribs: Contact Zone climbs the righthand one, Black September the central one, and Duck a L'Orange the lefthand one.

Descend the standard scrambling ramp route down the west face from the north-central col.

Protection 

Full rack, emphasis on hand-size cams and wired nuts. Small (RP size) wired nuts are useful on some pitches. A #4 camalot or similar sized piece is also nice for some pitches. Double ropes are also useful due to the wandering nature of some pitches.