Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 
Daffy's Shaft T 
Dark of the Moon S 
Duck A L'Orange T 
Duck Waddle Variation T 
Fool's Paradise S 
Frozen Stool T 
Great Grebes, Batman! T 
Pied-Billed Grebe S 
Playing In The Sun T 
Ruddy Duck T 
Sportsman's Paradise T 
Via Duck S 
Walking the Duck T 
Western Grebe T 
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 
Why a Duck? S 

Duck A L'Orange 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Foster, Bill Robins, 1988
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 18, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

On private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the far right side of the slab with Ruddy Duck and Walking the Duckis a bolted line. It starts on the east end of the ledge system past a couple of trees. It is hard to pick out, but look for a bolt beyond where you think it should be. From that bolt it hits a ledge and then an easy clip, followed by another bolt, and a dirt/grass filled crack where the pins used to be. I saw one scar. Probably the one from the pin sitting on AC's dash. Couldn't see any others. A couple of pieces here go past the dead stump, to the last bolt and then slab it out. The last section is very flaky.

Protection 

4 new 3/8" bolts on this route. The pins are missing though. Well, I couldn't see them. I was able to put a #1 Camalot in the first part of the crack, and then one shaky nut. No anchors here and not much to set one up. Good luck. I put a directional in and traversed left to the one bolt/tree anchor of Walking the Duck.


Comments on Duck A L'Orange Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 19, 2005

There is a dirty crack down low, left of the first bolt. You might want to get some pro into that crack, since a fall below the first bolt could have you doing George of the Jungle (look out for that TREE!). A fair amount of lichen and flakiness; this line does not appear to get climbed as often as it should. We had some questions about doing left to the dead tree or straight up to the boulder to end the route. There are no rap anchors as of this writing, so bring your own slings, or walk off east and down the gully.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2005

Straight up the nubbins to a Trad belay up around the bolder. Too bad it doesn't stay clean...fun route!!
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2005

Who retro Bolted this route? Thanks! This is one of those routes that could probably bennefit from a set of chains right below the bouder...no doubt that has always been the reason it see so little action.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Aug 8, 2009

there is a bolted anchor now
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 5, 2012

Definitely not 'R' (at least since being retro-bolted), although a slip above the 2nd bolt would hurt.